Celebrating the photography of Italian jewellery design in Wallpaper*
A flick through the Wallpaper* archive inspired us to revisit some of our favourite shots of Italian women's and men's jewellery published in the last few years
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Crista Leonard photographed Fabio Salini for Wallpaper* April 2020 issue
Our story imagined a contemporary dealer, who views jewellery design as art. Leonard, whose wide-ranging photographic style, which combines portrait, documentary, fashion and still-life, combined elements of each to bring our story to life with model Madeleine Blomberg. With obvious reference to gallerist Peggy Guggenheim, whose particular jewellery style was on a par with her distinct taste in art, our watches & jewellery director served up a clash of classic and contemporary fine jewellery. Here, we see Milan-based jeweller Fabio Salini’s coral, carbon fibre and diamond earrings, pictured alongside a Glenn Spiro pendant.
James Robjant (left) and Samuel Bradley (right), photographed Buccellati, for Wallpaper* Precious Index, May 2018 issue
James Robjant: The dynamic presence of this photograph of Buccellati’s ‘Hawaii’ pendant earrings is as much to do with London-based photographer Robjant’s hyper-real take, as it is the striking composition. Here, Robjant used a time-consuming non-computerised technique to subtly change our perspective, making the earrings appear longer and more voluminous than they are in reality.
Samuel Bradley: Bradley’s filmic photograph sees Buccellati’s white gold and diamond cuff emerging from glossy blackness into the light. Bradley, an English photographer, is renowned for singular compositions. Here, the fabric-like goldwork of the jewellery is revealed in detail, highlighting the classic nature of Buccellati’s craftsmanship, while making the jewels appear, otherworldly; futuristic even. Bradley also captures a practical aspect of fine jewellery design – it should work in harmony with skin.
Alessandro Furchino Capria photographed Vhernier and Fabio Salini for Wallpaper* May 2019 issue
The Milan-based photographer’s serene style was the right fit for a story announcing a new era of men’s jewellery style. In collaboration with Wallpaper* fashion director Jason Hughes, who opted for stark-black styling as the elegant foil for sparkling white diamonds, Furchino Capria ushered in a new mood of sophistication around white diamonds. In doing so, he bid goodbye to the blingy reputation that has tended to dominate them in recent years. Here Vhernier’s ‘Calla’ necklace in wood and white gold, with diamonds (left) and Fabio Salini’s ‘Mysterious’ ring in gold, carbon fibre, and diamonds, add a subtly glamorous touch to monochrome tailoring. (Also pictured – ‘Plume’ brooches in white gold, with diamonds, by Chanel Fine Jewellery).
Toby Coulson and Benjamin Bouchet photographed Bulgari for Wallpaper* December 2018 and October 2019 issues, respectively
Toby Coulson: Wallpaper fashion director Jason Hughes worked closely with Coulson to take full advantage of the transparent quality of Balmain’s thigh-high PVC boots, while shooting our December 2018 women’s watch story, featuring Bulgari’s ‘Serpenti Spiga Ceramic Five Tour’ watch. Despite the dramatic elements, Coulson’s photograph gives the scene a sense of normality.
Benjamin Bouchet: One of the most prominent still life fashion and jewellery photographers working in Paris Bouchet has shot for brands including Hermes and Giorgi Armani. The photographer also collaborates with art director and film-maker Franz Galo on personal and commissioned projects. The tension in Bouchet’s depiction of Bulgari’s white-diamond ‘Cinemagia’ high jewellery pieces against Naoto Fukasawa’s Deja-vu chair for Magis, is palpable. Working with watches & jewellery director, Caragh McKay, the mirrored surface inspired a mood of paranoia; of a woman secretly stealing her jewels back from an estranged partner’s home.
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