
Chaumet Garden of Earthly Delights brooch: Chaumet have long been inspired by nature, originally incorporating whimsical themes into their high jewellery as a tribute to keen nature lover Empress Joséphine. Diamond-encrusted foliage winding around tiaras and precious wheat sheafs have both become synonymous with the identity of the Maison, but now it is the turn of the rather less glamorous scarecrow. Here cast in white and rose gold and sporting a jaunty hat, manderin garnet dangling, he chews thoughtfully on a sheaf of wheat, uniting Chaumet’s centuries-old historical references in one charming silhouette.
Writer: Hannah Silver

Cindy Chao Black Label Masterpiece earrings: This year’s Black Label Masterpiece collection unveiled by Cindy Chao at TEFAF develops themes she introduced last year. We saw her using aluminum in 2019’s exquisite butterfly brooch, and she is once again attracted by unexpected materials in the Ebony Diamond earrings. This time, it is the ebony which takes centre stage, a foil for the cushion cut diamond and brown-yellow diamond. Extremely delicate it may be, but its resistant nature makes it the ideal seat for the gems, the warmth of the polished ebony accentuating the clarity of the diamonds.
Writer: Hannah Silver

Chanel Tweed de Chanel earrings: Paris Couture Week is almost upon us, and Chanel has whetted our appetite in spectacular style with the brand new Tweed de Chanel collection. The material was an enduring favourite of Gabrielle Chanel’s –who could identify tweed which had been washed in the River Tweed’s waters – and later became an integral part of her womenswear collection. Now, it’s the turn of high jewellery, and the first collection devoted only to tweed interprets the warm and soft nature of woollen cloth with a glorious mesh of precious materials. Diamonds, pearls and sapphires are layered, intertwined and twisted into bracelets, rings, necklaces and earrings, pictured, for glorious results as textured and rich as tweed itself.
Writer: Hannah Silver

Chaumet ‘Les Ciels de Chaumet Nuages d’or’ brooch: The Parisian maison scaled great heights when crafting its latest High Jewellery collection, taking inspiration from a myriad of sky-inspired artistic references, from solar discs emblazoned on Ancient Egyptian frescoes to Van Gogh’s gold-flooded Provençal sun, Turner’s expansive Hebridean skies, to Matisse’s abstract birds in flight. It wasn’t just the vastness of the atmosphere which inspired Chaumet. The maison also looked back into its own expansive archive when designing its sky-high creations. Its ‘Nuages d’or’ pieces are inspired a gold necklace from 1890, featuring baroque pearls resembling bulging Cumulonimbus clouds. Here, the baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds of this brooch are tessellated to resemble a graphic group of clouds, and sharp slivers of gold illuminate them like beams of sunlight. Each of the brooch’s clouds has been shaped by hand, in a nod to the unique forms in nature.
Writer: Laura Hawkins

David Morris Miss Daisy brooch: The Miss Daisy collection from David Morris is synonymous with feminine floral detailing, marrying gems in a precious tribute to the two superimposed flowers of the daisy. Now, the collection has for the first time included a brooch in its roster of rose-cut diamond jewels. Juxtaposing delicate micro-set white diamonds with the cool, contemporary lines of the safety-pin fastening, it will add a blindingly sharp edge to a lapel.
Writer: Hannah Silver

Boghossian Gold Thread earrings: Boghossian, exhibiting this week at Design Miami, has drawn inspiration from the Silk Collection launched last year for its carefully considered booth. A piece crafted from gold thread is at the heart of Danish artist Kia Utzon-Frank’s vision, which unites silk blinds with Lebanese furniture designer Nada Debs’ richly lacquered pieces. The striking amalgamation of textures and cultures is reflected in the jewels themselves: these Gold Thread earrings are woven from 18-ct gold silk and edged with a mosaic of moonstone, dark cornaline and mother of pearl. Using modern technology and ancient references, they succinctly capture the rich multiculturalism at the heart of the brand.
Writer: Hannah Silver