Style findings: 2015’s daily dispatches from the Wallpaper* fashion team
Style findings: 2015’s daily dispatches from the Wallpaper* fashion team
Calvin Klein Collection’s copper creations
18 December
At the junction of 60th and Madison Avenue, Calvin Klein Collection’s New York flagship is now home to Sophia Dixon Dillo’s latest installation work, Forming Light. The piece constitutes 83 miles of threaded copper fibres that wind through the store’s expansive retail space. It changes markedly in response to ambient light levels, shifting from a metallic brilliance in full daylight to a burnt glow at twilight.
Calvin Klein’s homeware collection has been designed to respond to the installation, with hints of platinum, copper and rose gold accenting the wide array of domestic products. The Madison Avenue store will also be offering an exclusive personalisation service on certain items, allowing clients to monogram their purchases in the metallic hues that run through the collection.
Writer: Edward Siddons
Luxury leathers
17 December
John Lobb is a shoemaker with a more illustrious history than most. Founded in 1866, the brand has crafted shoes for royalty and slowly built a global empire, while never compromising on the artisanal skills on which the label was founded.
This season, John Lobb is applying its expertise to a range of small leather goods, offering classic shapes in the highest quality materials. ’Traditional hand tools used for shaping wooden lasts and the rasp texture on the surface of these tools inspired this capsule collection of functional wallets, passport holders and card holders,’ says designer Paula Gerbase. ’As ever, the craftsmanship present in the John Lobb ateliers continues to inspire me to bring the Bootmaking process into light through carefully considered details.’ With smooth finishes or embossed detailing, the collection includes black and burgundy offerings to inject a hint of class into any thinking man’s wardrobe.
Writer: Edward Siddons
Modern classics: the Bermondsy bomber
16 December
Oliver Spencer’s quintessentially British take on menswear has taken the brand from strength to strength, remaking staples in relaxed new styles and the highest quality fabrics. The brand’s Bermondsy bomber is but one example.
Available in Berkeley grey cashmere, striking floral prints and green or black suede, Spencer’s update on the bomber jacket is versatile both across seasons and occasions while remaining effortlessly cool. The jacket is available online or in Oliver Spencer’s London stores.
Writer: Edward Siddons
Swedish Style: Acne Studios’ Bags
15 December
Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios, seems to prize practicality as highly as his eccentric, offbeat aesthetic. The brand’s inaugural range of bags is eminently practical: large enough for transporting life’s essentials and hardy enough for daily usage, the range also offers eye-popping colour, multiple styles and exquisite whip-stitch detailing.
The range is entirely made in Italy and incorporates subtle design allusions to past Acne collections, not least the A/W 2015 rope embellishments. The bags, which come in bucket, shoulder and backpack styles, are available on Acne’s online store and in selected Acne boutiques worldwide.
Writer: Edward Siddons
Tune in Tokyo
14 December
Saint Laurent has opened its first store in Tokyo within the city’s luxury hub, the Omotesandō district.
The three-storey flagship mirrors the sleek lines of Hedi Slimane’s noir soie and white marble French art deco redesign, and also features furnishings by Dutch and American designers Gerrit Rietveld and Jay Spectre in addition to the house’s molten pop-up slot machine.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Diesel’s wonder world
11 December
Yet another stage in Nicola Formichetti’s radical reworking of Diesel’s global presence, the flagship store at 625 Madison Avenue in New York has been entirely transformed. Formichetti engineered the new aesthetic with Wonderwall, the globally renowned Japanese interior design firm founded by Masamichi Katayama.
Diesel’s new look combines beamed wooden ceilings, austere concrete floors, industrial steel fixtures and classic Persian rugs to create a retail space whose eclectic global influences blend seamlessly.
Writer: Edward Siddons
Troubadour’s foray into fabric
10 December
Troubadour’s reputation has been built on their luxury all-leather accessories. Their new offering heralds a change of tack, however. The brand’s new Fabric + Leather range consolidates their commitment to simplicity, masculinity and craftsmanship, but innovates by way of lightweight new materials.
Combining open-nylon, a technical canvas and matte rubberised materials with signature vegetable-tanned leather, the new range weighs less – and costs less – than past offerings. The collection is now available at Selfridges and on Troubadour’s site.
Writer: Edward Siddons
Erdem’s Green Carpet gowns
9 December
Erdem’s eminently wearable interpretations of femininity have earned the house a dedicated following and a number of accolades, not least the British Fashion Council’s prestigious Womenswear Designer of the Year award in 2014. For its latest venture, Erdem has partnered with Livia Firth’s sustainability consultancy Eco-Age, to produce a collection entirely from reused, surplus or sustainably certified materials.
The four dresses on offer are typical of Erdem’s delicately feminine but resolutely versatile aesthetic, blending Victorian necklines with injections of vibrant print, embroidery and asymmetric detailing. The collection will be available online at Net-A-Porter.
Writer: Edward Siddons
Hepworth meets Howell for 2016
8 December
Barbara Hepworth’s recent retrospective at the Tate Britain was ground breaking, uncovering her often-underestimated influence on 20th century sculpture and disrupting the unquestioned superiority of Henry Moore and her other male peers. In support of the Tate’s re-evaluation of the doyenne of British sculpture, Margaret Howell created a charming capsule collection to complement the exhibition.
Continuing the fashion matriarch’s contribution to Hepworth’s legacy, Howell has also collaborated with the Tate Britain on a Hepworth calendar, offering aficionados the chance to start the New Year in commemorative style. Faithfully representing Hepworth’s work and visually striking in its own right, the calendar is available in Tate Britain shops and online.
Writer: Edward Siddons
KiBiSi and Bulbul’s minimalist Ore watch
7 December
Admired for their commitment to innovation and pure approach to design, influential Copenhagen studio KiBiSi have collaborated with watchmaker and fellow Danes Bulbul to create the minimal and ultra-desirable Ore watch.
The moniker references the process of stripping back superfluous details to reduce the timepiece to its purest form. Having scored previous hits with the asymmetrical Pebble and modish Facette, the Ore continues the brand’s pared-back aesthetic with a colour palette and materials – including Italian leather, high-grade German steel and ultra-durable sapphire glass – to match its predecessors.
In spite of its cutting edge appearance, the Ore’s beating heart retains a dedication to time-honoured processes, with movements fashioned from gold-plated Swiss mechanics. ‘The new watch comes with a more classic, minimalist overall shape,’ says KiBiSi co-founder Lars Holme Larsen, ‘creating a finely tuned balance between heritage and contemporary appearance.’
Writer: David Paw
Going for gold: Slimane’s slot machine
4 December
Saint Laurent’s understated glamour finds a rather less modest companion in Hedi Slimane’s latest store installation – a glitzy gold vending machine, which plays host to some of the house’s classic pieces for a limited time.
The gilded throwback features the house’s iconic college monogram bag in black, prairie or camouflage, and a pair of its Wyatt 40 fringe ankle boots in tan suede or black leather. Already on show in Los Angeles and New York, Slimane’s slot machine hits London’s Bond Street store on 9 December.
Writer: Edward Siddons
The wonders of wool
3 December
Loro Piana has cemented its position as the premier destination for true wool connoisseurs. The brand’s annual award for superior Merino was this year presented to a record-breakingly fine Australian wool. It’s this commitment to sourcing the world’s best yarns that has resulted in Loro Piana’s ‘The Gift of Kings’ range.
Relentlessly pushing the frontiers of fabric technology, the exclusive collection also includes a select range of men’s outerwear, jackets, knitwear and scarves, and is available at Loro Piana’s e-boutique.
Writer: Edward Siddons
Fifty shades of Dior
2 December
The predilection for personalisation is picking up pace – and Dior’s latest customisation service is particularly eye catching. MyDiorSoReal builds upon the French house’s commitment to couture principals with its ever-expanding range of eyewear, now offering a staggering range of personal options, including custom lenses, metals, arms and even the option to subtly engrave your one-of-a-kind shades.
Writer: Edward Siddons; Photography: Joan Braun
Standing up for sustainability
1 December
Lands’ End’s commitment to its relaxed yet refined range of clothing, accessories and homewares is only matched by its dedication to sustainability and ethical manufacturing. Its zero waste commitments, environmental preservation efforts and recycling schemes are at the core of the brand, as evinced by the remarkable mannequins on display at their S/S 2016 presentation.
Made entirely of recycled cardboard, the figures aptly encapsulated the heart of the label – and looked exceptional to boot.
Writer: Edward Siddons
The 43rd Pirelli Calendar 2016
30 November
With Annie Leibovitz behind the lens, and a casting call that celebrates outstanding women of all cultures, ages and professions – Patty Smith, Serena Williams, Yoko Ono, actress Yao Chen, philanthropist Agnes Gund, film producer Kathleen Kennedy, publisher Tavi Gevinson included – the 2016 Pirelli Calendar finally epitomises a more complete picture of the modern woman.
’I started to think about the roles that women play, women who have achieved something,’ explains the celebrated American photographer. ’I wanted to make a classic set of portraits. I thought that the women should look strong but natural and I decided to keep it a very simple exercise of shooting in the studio. This calendar is so completely different. It is a departure. The idea was not to have any pretense in these pictures and be very straightforward.’
Indeed, Leibovitz has returned to the calendar’s 1960s origins: a time when there was plenty of personality, but no actual nudes.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Dunhill’s tricks of the trade
27 November
To accompany its exceptional range of leather gifts this season, Dunhill have brought a little magic to the festive fold.
The brand’s holiday film sees soft-grained calfskin wallets and lightweight Albany folios inexplicably appear, disappear and reappear through stunning slights of hand, and equally impeccable editing by production company Meri Media, in one of the sleekest film shorts of the season.
www.dunhill.com
Writer: Edward Siddons
McQ comes to Spitalfields
26 November
In her five years as creative director of Alexander McQueen and its diffusion line McQ, Sarah Burton has demonstrated her hands-on involvement in the design of both lines’ boutiques, and this second London outpost of McQ is no different.
The East London location’s black painted bricks, grey concrete and pale wooden floors, takes the brand’s youthful spirit to a Grade II listed building from 1823 in Spitalfields. Blood red and lacquered white details provide an indication of McQ’s unflagging rebellious streak throughout the retail space’s two floors. A dedicated art space below ground extends that feeling of raw energy, providing a platform for emerging international artists – such as the Ethiopian-born Belgian artist Ermias Kifleyesus whose work inaugurates the gallery.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
Extreme expeditions: introducing Moncler’s polar adventurewear
25 November
Michele Pontrandolfo is nothing short of exceptional: with fourteen polar expeditions to his name, his latest quest is to be the first man ever to trek to the South Pole alone. For this epic adventure, the Italian explorer turned to Moncler, whose sporty aesthetic is underpinned by fearsome technical expertise.
Moncler’s bespoke creations for Pontrandolfo draw heavily on its A/W 2015 collection, featuring pieces resistant to extreme cold with highly impermeable fabrics for optimal waterproofing. The collection is available now within Moncler’s global stores.
Writer: Edward Siddons
Peter Pilotto’s Greek odyssey
24 November
Peter Pilotto has teamed up with Ancient Greek Sandals for a bold new footwear offering. Combining Pilotto’s penchant for graphic print and bold colour combinations with its collaborator’s classical summer footwear, the new range includes flat, wedged and gladiator styles, rich with appliqué detailing and half-ball rivets.
Launching at the end of November, the collection will be available on Ancient Greek Sandals’ website.
Writer: Edward Siddons
Jérôme Dreyfuss moves into Mayfair
23 November
Inspired by the brutalist aesthetic of Carlo Scarpa, and clad with 25-metre long sliding wooden trellises, the new Jérôme Dreyfuss store delicately balances the urban and the natural.
Co-designed with the architect Franklin Azzi, the space is the brand’s first London address. Nestled in the heart of Mayfair, it stocks an extensive range of men’s and women’s bags, shoes and accessories.
Writer: Edward Siddons
Quentin Jones spices up Smythson’s holiday offering
20 November
Smythson’s A/W 2015 campaign star, artist and filmaker Quentin Jones, has also employed her signature stop-motion animation technique to deck out the house’s festive season film.
Titled ’Wonderland’, the collaged result sees blue boxes popping open the reveal the house’s finest winter accoutrements, accompanied by graphic text cut-outs, layered textural leather strips and cartoon-esque portraits of the artist. ’Tis the season after all.
Writer: Katrina Israel
An Englishman abroad: Hunter’s NYC pop-up
19 November
Hunter’s first retail venture on US soil takes the form of a New York City pop-up store at 108 Wooster Street, carrying both Hunter Original and Hunter Field including footwear, outerwear, accessories and kids.
The British heritage brand will reside in the fashion heart of SoHo until mid-February 2016. After that, plans are afoot for a permanent home in the Big Apple.
Writer: Edward Siddons
East meets West: Adidas Consortium X Limited Edt
18 November
Adidas Consortium’s newest collaboration with cutting-edge Singaporean designers Ltd Edition clashes cultures in one of their most striking products to date.
Blending traditional Singaporean Batik print aesthetics with the iconic Adidas Trefoil, the Superstar 80v and ZX flux models are comprehensively revamped with flashes of rose gold. The eye-catching collaboration goes on pre-release 22 November at Limited Edt’s website and on general release 29 November.
Writer: Edward Siddons
Peake communication
17 November
Continuing the brand’s commitment to exploring the intersections of fashion, art and retail space, Victoria Beckham’s Dover Street store has just unveiled an exclusive new work by acclaimed London-based artist Eddie Peake.
A stretch of electric blue paint punctuated by white lettering, the work exemplifies Peake’s exploration of verbal and non-verbal mediums, blending colourist abstraction with the communicative potential of the written word. His exhibition at the Barbican’s Curve gallery is ongoing.
Writer: Edward Siddons
Automatic moves
16 November
Against the backdrop of London’s city skyline, Anglo-Swedish watch label Larsson & Jennings launched its first range of Swiss made, mechanical watches at the Ace Hotel.
The Automatic series includes a sweeping second hand, folding deployment clasp and date calendar functionality united by a 21 jewel ETA 2892.A2 mechanical movement, and, at £995, marks the brand’s first steps into a luxury price bracket.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Pramma’s graphic marriage
13 November
Stefania Pramma teamed up with British artist Julie Verhoeven for an operatic performance at Notting Hill restaurant Assaggi in honour of the Italian designer’s S/S 2016 collection.
In new shades of cinnabar red, cadmium yellow and a neutral umber, Pramma’s latest ’Bagism’ collection referenced art deco architecture in her graphic marriage of sculptural shapes with curvilinear edges which were, of course, studded with her signature semi-precious jewels.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Longchamp hits Hollywood
12 November
This year is the tenth anniversary of the collaboration between French luxury brand Longchamp and fashion designer Jeremy Scott. Since 2006, Scott has created numerous exclusive designs for the classic Le Pliage bag, finding inspiration in his own ready-to-wear collections.
The newest addition is the ’Greetings from Hollywood’ bag – a salutation to the city of angels and a celebration of a productive decade. The limited edition bag is currently available online.
Writer: Melinda Akerbrant
Step up: Loewe launches inaugural sneaker collection
11 November
Debuting as part of its men’s A/W 2015 campaign, Loewe is launching its first sneaker collection, designed by creative director Jonathan Anderson.
Appearing in multiple colour and material combinations – including the house’s signature suede alongside navy and black calf leather – the sneaker fuses Loewe’s expertise in leather craft with a palpable youthful energy.
For January 2016, the sneaker gets an additional intergalactic makeover, with a space-travel inspired ‘Galaxy’ motif emblazoned upon it.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Issey Miyake Eyes Project
10 November
’The concept was inspired by the idea of a stick of metal like a brush stroke,’ says Yusuke Takahashi of the thinking behind Issey Miyake’s minimalist new eyewear line. ’Just as making clothing in Issey Miyake had started with a unique idea of a piece of cloth, we attempted to start an eyewear design with a single line.’
The line is available in over 40 combinations, including two-way optical and sunglasses styles, with three titanium frame options.
Writer: Zoe Sinclair
MSGM: wired for sound
9 October
Most fashion showrooms have a chameleon quality, adopting the key message of each new season via a new colour scheme or display casing, but none more so than MSGM’s Milano showroom, located within Riccardo Grassi.
For S/S 2016 it has been conceived as a padded rock ’n’ roll sound studio by architect and regular collaborator Fabio Ferrillo. Last season, the space featured a gold-dipped playground swing set; for this one, it’s all foam cladding, fluorescent tube lighting and electric guitars at the ready.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Superlative shirting
6 October
Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding are known for their desire to create the perfect shirt. Through innovative pattern cutting and draping techniques they have re-imagined the humble wardrobe staple in many guises since the label’s emergence in 2012.
For S/S 2016 the duo have expanded their recently launched ‘Shirt Series’ line. This capsule collection allows them to further experiment with the proportions and construction of the modern shirts they are known for.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Check mate: Jonathan Saunders x Radley
5 October
British designer Jonathan Saunders has teamed up with UK accessory brand Radley on a striking 16-piece leather collection. Comprising checkerboard printed backpacks, totes, clutches, bucket bags and wallets, the contemporary collection, which references Radley heritage styles, pairs retro colour combinations to great graphic effect.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Nancy Gonzalez wins ACE Award
4 October
Colombian bag designer Nancy Gonzalez has been awarded the Accessories Council Excellence Award for ’Innovation’ by the New York-based association. The award is given to companies or individuals that have made a meaningful impact on the world of accessories. (She previously won the Accessories Council Excellence Award for ‘Brand of the Year’ in 2007.)
The bags are all inspired by Gonzalez’s native culture, handcrafted in Colombia with great attention to detail.
Writer: Nathalie König
Club kids
3 November
Taking its name from the legacy of 1980s party girls, the ’Miu Miu Club’ displays the trademark Miu Miu sartorial values of fine workmanship and playful eccentricity, combining matelassé leather with (in this instance) a graphic road-hazard-signage inspired design.
The bag hits Miu Miu stores from the end of November.
Writer: Zoë Sinclair
Colenimo’s inaugural store
2 October
Japanese designer Aya Nakagawa has opened her first store, within a Grade II-listed workshop in East London’s Shoreditch. Built in 1895 by Reginald Minton Taylor to support the nearby Boundary Estate, the Cleve Workshops are a craft relic unto themselves.
The row of 16 worker’s studios – once filled with blacksmiths, tailors and furniture makers – are now home to a florist, barber and a coterie of fashion designers, including Colenimo’s rustic space, which is the perfect backdrop for Nakagawa’s earthen designs.
Writer: Katrina Israel
’A beautiful darkness’
30 October
To get the Hallowe’en weekend off to a cracking start, Veuve Clicquot and Nick Knight teamed up to host the inaugural ’Widow Series’ – a sensory London exhibition that included a labyrinth of spooky film sequences, creepy installations and art collaborations – all inspired by the dark side. And if you could get past all of the party’s walking dead extras. it was the event’s vintage Veuve cellar society where the night truly came to life.
Pictured: ’Noblese Oblige’ dollar bill skull by Scott Campbell
Writer: Katrina Israel
Kanye West’s Adidas Originals
29 October
’Stress free’, ’contemporary’ and ’worldly’ are the conceptual reference points for Kanye West’s new fashion collection, designed in collaboration with Adidas Originals. YEEZY Season 1 features both footwear and apparel, and includes bombers, parkas and a large section of unisex pieces.
With an all neutral color-scheme, the collection allows for vast combinations. It hits stores globally today.
Writer: Melinda Akerbrant
Woolrich x Okajima Atelier
28 October
For their S/S 2016 collection, Woolrich has teamed up with one of Japan’s oldest mills – Okajima, in Kyoto – to developed three exclusively designed Kimono Prescott Parkas.
The lightweight and reversible parkas are created by Okajima Atelier and feature exquisite prints that bring together centuries of authenticity with contemporary fashion design – all with bonded seams, making them waterproof on the reversible side.
The Kimono Prescott Parkas will be available from January.
Writer: Nathalie König
Arts and crafts
27 October
Looking set to challenge the norm for S/S 2016, Arthur Yates’ London based label Bruta presents a collection of unisex casual shirting – each piece adorned with hand drawn designs inspired by art, culture and traditional crafts.
The aesthetic also extends onto hand-painted urns and pots, sold alongside the collection.
Writer: Zoë Sinclair
PS Pins
26 October
Offering customisation without commitment, Proenza Schouler’s Holiday 2015 line-up introduces the brand’s new PS Pin project, whereby its classic bag family – the PS1, the Bucket and the Lunch bag, available in the brand’s signature perforated leather – can be personalised with a set of enamel letter and number pin badges without causing any damage to the actual bag. The one-inch pins are composed of enamel-coated brass and come in an array of hues in a sans-serif font. Better yet, the brooches can easily jump off bags and onto coat lapels.
PS Pins are available from Net-A-Porter and Proenza Schouler
Writer: Katrina Israel
Art sounds
23 October
Master & Dynamic have teamed up with artist Logan Real on a limited edition, hand printed run of their signature MH40 headphones in graffiti, drip and camouflage prints.
Each design comes in a range of different colour combos and will be available from 1 November globally.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Mira Mikati x KAWS
22 October
Known for their signature bomber jacket – described as a modern answer to the blazer by the brand’s eponymous creative director – Mira Mikati have joined forces with renowned New York based artist KAWS for a capsule collection.
The collection includes three models of the bomber jacket, each acting as a separate canvas for KAWS’ paintings. The collaboration has been a ‘dream come true’ for Mira Mikati, who loves the optimism and fun in KAWS’ designs.
The collection is available to pre-order exclusively through Colette.
Writer: Nathalie König
OTHER/Zine
21 October
British photographer Ellis Scott has collaborated with designer Ross Bennett on a limited edition photographic zine, Gush Dan, that explores Tel Aviv’s striking architectural landscape and the people that inhabit it.
Last week’s launch also coincided with an installation of images from the zine at OTHER/Shop, on London’s Kingley Street.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Leather essentials
20 October
Acne Studios have debuted their newest small leather goods range, fashioned from premium Italian leather with luxurious details. The unisex collection includes wallets, iPhone holders, pouches and key necklaces, in shades of black, white, burgundy and orange. The collection is available now, both in-store and online.
For those looking for a slightly more bespoke offering, a personalisation service with an alphabet created by renowned artist Jack Pierson is available at Acne’s Norrmalmstorg Stockholm, Greene Street NYC and Dover Street London outposts (as well as online).
Writer: Hangna Koh
Aquazzura on Albemarle Street
19 October
Aquazzura’s creative director and co-founder Edgardo Osorio has opened his second flagship store in London’s Mayfair, that steps forward with its own individual flair. ’Nowadays, I feel that luxury store interiors are too similar all around the world,’ explains the Colombian designer. ’Just like our Florence store, the London store will have its own individual personality, but will of course remain within the overall image of Aquazzura’s elegant yet eclectic aesthetic.’
The Florentine flagship, which unites a store and headquarters, is located within the striking Palazzo Corsini, a 15th century palace on the banks of the Arno River. This modern space follows a more cosmopolitan theme, defined by monochrome marble and Aquazzura’s signature black and white stripes.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Paris in London
16 October
To celebrate its 20th anniversary, the Parisian brand Paul & Joe is opening a UK flagship store on 15 October at 28 Bruton Street, in London’s Mayfair.
The store, its first in the UK, is the first step in Paul & Joe’s planned expansion across Europe, carrying ready-to-wear for both women and men; the brand’s second line, Sister; and furniture specially designed for the company.
Writer: Nathalie Koenig
Dior pops up on London’s Mount Street
15 October
While its New Bond Street locale undergoes a fancy face lift, Dior has opened a temporary boutique on London’s Mount Street, which also debuts the house’s brand new retail concept as a taster of what’s to come globally.
Inside, that appears to include some high-tech paintwork, with the store’s walls lined with floor-to-ceiling digital screens that can be customised accordingly (they’re currently displaying Mats Gustafson’s A/W 2015 collection illustrations). More traditional design gems include mirrors by Hubert Le Gall, a curving sofa by Vladimir Kagan and coffee table by Guy de Rougemont. Londoners: watch out for the store’s coordinating camo cabs.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Auto-designer footwear
14 October
Online shopping site Farfetch has partnered up with London-based footwear Swear to launch the first-ever platform for bespoke luxury footwear – MySwear. There will be 16 unisex silhouettes to choose from, and a customisable selection of colours, metallics and fine materials, including ethically sourced exotic skins.
The final, personalised product will be handcrafted in Portugal with a lead-time of 4-6 weeks. Prices range from €280–€7,500.
Writer: Melinda Akerbrant
Pringle deconstructed
13 October
Today, Scottish luxury brand Pringle launches its new online customisable knitwear service, ’Deconstructed’, in celebration of its 200th year.
With the aim of supporting Scottish manufacturing and Scottish mills, the e-store allows customers to design their own bespoke, 100 per cent cashmere argyle jumpers and twinsets. ’It is a fantastic showcase for our partners, delivering unique Scottish cashmere styles within just six weeks,’ explains Pringle’s head of design Massimo Nicosia of the project.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Beatrix Ong introduces WEN
12 October
Inspired by British heritage craftsmanship and the soles of traditional Beijing cloth shoes, Beatrix Ong has revealed the first, limited edition iteration of her newest footwear collection: WEN.
The monochrome, unisex shoe is constructed from sustainable materials, with soles cast in recycled rubber. WEN’s first edition models are available now from London’s Design Museum.
Writer: Hangna Koh
Gucci’s Plexiglass wristwatch
9 October
Spotting the cute Plexiglas wristwatch on the Gucci S/S 2016 catwalk may have been a task for the seriously sharp eyed: with so much textural accessorising going on, this little vintage-inspired horological curio may have gone undetected.
The use of Plexiglas is a cool move – it’s unexpected, so immediately takes this timepiece beyond the ‘licensing deal’ norm. It’s also in keeping for the trend for watches with square or rectangular dials that are sizeable enough to sit almost entirely across the wrist: like bangles that tells the time.
Writer: Caragh McKay
The great outdoors
8 October
Born of a simultaneous love for British craftsmanship and the country’s occasionally mountainous landscape, McNair Mountain Shirts add a spot of luxury to outdoors attire. Made from 100 per cent merino wool, the shirts are designed, spun, woven, milled and finished all within ten miles of the brand’s atelier in Huddersfield, Yorkshire. Drawing on years of expertise in wool manufacturing, McNair have worked with local mills to create a natural fabric that is soft, strong and protective.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Horsing around: Brioni celebrates 40 years at Harrods
7 October
To celebrate its 40th anniversary at the iconic London department store, Italian luxury menswear brand Brioni has taken over five windows to create an installation devoted to its Su Misura service for the month of October.
Brioni’s service seeks to elevate any body type (from that of a sumo wrestler to a jockey) with bespoke suiting, overseen by a master tailor to accent each client’s physique and personal style.
Writer: Nathalie König
On Pedder on Scotts, Singapore
6 October
Hong Kong’s designer footwear stalwart On Pedder has opened its largest concept store to date, spread over 20,000 square feet, in Singapore’s Scotts Square, just a few steps away from retail Mecca Orchard Road.
Designed by architect Abraham Chan, the accessory destination occupies seven themed zones, from contemporary shoes to designer bags, including men’s and kid’s departments. To celebrate the opening, Nicholas Kirkwood is jetting in later this month to debut his ten-year-anniversary collection in store.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Double take Dusan
5 October
Serbian-born, Milan-based designer Dusan continues to create some of our favourite under the radar fashion. Here, two looks from his latest spring collection utilise the finest double-faced cashmeres and wools.
Writer: JJ Martin
The sporting life
2 October
In celebration of the extant Rugby World Cup, Chanel has designed four leather rugby balls imbued with the house’s iconic quilting pattern.
While it’s probably fair to assume the accessories will be of greater appeal to fashion-forward collectors than your average rugby enthusiast, Karl Lagerfeld’s ovoid creation is elegantly minimalist – and a direct nod to Coco’s persistent references to sport in her menswear design.
Writer: Tom Howells
COS teams up with the Donald Judd Foundation
1 October
The work of American artist Donald Judd has long been an inspiration to the modern and minimalist brand COS. A selection of his work – including woodcut prints and metallic furniture – will be showcased in the artist’s former home and studio in New York this fall. By inviting the public to this intimate space, the show ties in with the open and accessible ethos of COS itself.
’Prints: Donald Judd’ is on view at 101 Spring Street, New York, from tomorrow until 19 December
Pictured: Untitled, 1992–1993. Courtesy Judd Foundation Archive
Writer: Melinda Akerbrant
aMANda
30 September
The allure of androgyny continues with Fendi’s new short film starring fashion muse and insider Amanda Harlech, directed by Patrick Kinmonth and Antonio Monfreda. Shot on a nature reserve in Capalbio, Italy, the collaboration offers a gender bending take on the house’s A/W 2015 men’s collection.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Inside Céline
29 September
When Phoebe Philo was appointed creative director of Céline in 2008, she surprised onlookers by moving the design studio and offices of this classic French maison to London. Under her direction, the brand – both its popularity and revenue – have grown exponentially, and by 2015, it was time to put down roots in Paris. This year saw the opening of a new headquarters, at 16 rue Vivienne, a 17th century building already steeped in Parisian history. Formerly an ambassadorial residence – and once the location of the Paris Stock Exchange – it now has a third life, captured on film.
Rather than offering a behind-the-scenes look at offices and studios, the clip evokes a mood (much like the visual references provided by Philo at each show). It highlights not only those classically Parisian elements of sweeping staircases, restored to their former glory after an extensive renovation, but also the new elements, such as the striking marble floor which can also be seen in the brand’s London flagship.
Writer: Alice Shaughnessy
Riccardo’s Milanese fish shop
28 September
A few weeks ago, Riccardo Tisci opened his first Givenchy store on New York’s Madison Avenue; now, he’s added a Milan flagship to the house’s property portfolio. Situated on Via Sant’Andrea, the store is a prime example of the brand’s new retail directive to create tailor-made atmospheres at each location – evinced here by the boutique’s rather unexpected aquarium. ’I wanted to create something special and unique that would inspire visitors to discover Givenchy and its surprises,’ said Tisci. Swimmingly said.
Writer: Katrina Israel
APC moves into Notting Hill
25 September
In keeping with their Soho and Shoreditch stores, glazed ceramic bricks are a central design and structural feature of APC’s third London location, opening today in Notting Hill. Working with their usual partners, Laurent Deroo Architecte, the bricks (in several shades of grey) are paired with light oak to create screens which run through the store, as well as brass for the fixtures and fittings. For a brand focused on essentials, product is appropriately minimal – but displayed to maximum effect.
Writer: Alice Shaughnessy
Eytys x Jessica Hans
24 September
The Scando sneaker phenomena Eytys has teamed up with American ceramicist Jessica Hans and 10 Corso Como on a new collaboration for A/W 2015. The capsule collection includes two screen printed, suede pairs (in both low and hi-top versions) featuring artworks based on Hans’ graphic designs – inspired by the work of Miró and Keith Haring (who also inspired JW Anderson’s S/S 2016 runway). The project launches today exclusively at 10 Corso Como and at Eytys online.
Photography: Bohman+Sjostrand for Space Magazine; Writer: Katrina Israel
Retail renaissance
23 September
Coinciding with the start of Milan Fashion Week, Gucci unveils the next stage of its Alessandro Michele-led renaissance – the first new store concept in an ambitious roll out for the retail giant.
With each new boutique expected to receive it’s own unique interpretation, the updated flagship on Milan’s via Monte Napoleone introduces the core design codes. Cool grey walls and floors provide a discreet backdrop for a store design that marries Gucci’s heritage as a trunk and luggage maker, with Michele’s penchant for the romantic. Display cabinets and drawers are decorated with rivets, and, combined with marble and metal, provide an industrial edge which is balanced by vintage oriental rugs, rich velvet upholstery, and mannequins adorned with flowers and jewels.
Writer: Alice Shaughnessy
Rock Style
22 September
Celebrating the work and lifestyles of the world’s most influential musicians – from David Bowie to George Harrison, Debbie Harry to Jimi Hendrix – is a new photography exhibition curated by Tommy Hilfiger and art dealer Jeffrey Deitch, which opened at London’s Sotheby’s S|2 gallery last night.
On show until 30 October, ’Rock Style’ was inspired by the book of the same name, originally published by Hilfiger and music journalist Anthony DeCurtis in 2000.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Come rain or shine
21 September
Scottish outerwear brand Mackintosh and Japanese fashion label Hyke have once more joined forces to create a weather defiant capsule collection. Their modern fusion of utilitarian styles for A/W 2015 pairs Mackintosh’s signature rubberised and wool-bonded cotton with Hyke’s recognisable camouflage print. The garments will be available both in store and online from October 2015.
Writer: Hangna Koh
Robert Storey’s Smythson story
18 September
In celebration of Smythson’s A/W 2015 campaign – starring set designer and Wallpaper* collaborator Robert Storey – the brand takes us inside the spatial creative’s Dalston studio, where he discusses his inspirations, from the local Rio cinema to the Barbican’s brutalist architecture. Stay tuned for Storey’s handiwork within the company’s Christmas windows.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Hans Feurer exposed
17 September
With over 50 years of defining work, Hans Feurer is no stranger to the world of fashion photography. His masterful oeuvre includes a groundbreaking Kenzo campaign in the 1980s which, 30 years later, was the inspiration for the brand’s A/W 2013 collection. Feurer’s work is marked by a mix of natural settings, a keen manipulation of light and shadow, and a talent for capturing the strong and sensual emotion of the female form.
An exhibition of Feurer’s work, ’Exposure’, is on view until 26 September at Mead Carney Fine Art, on Mayfair’s Dover Street.
Writer: Melinda Akerbrant
Bring the noise
16 September
Launching today, Master & Dynamic debuts its ME05 brass earphones, building on its existing in-ear product range. According to the New York-based company, the addition is not only to enhance aesthetics – brass also has ‘natural acoustic qualities’. When paired with the brand’s custom 8mm titanium-coated dynamic drivers, the earphones offer listeners a rich, warm sound profile, with a secure fit achieved via balanced weight distribution.
Writer: Alice Shaughnessy
(Retail) space race: McQueen opens store on Paris’ Rue Saint-Honoré
15 September
With a timely opening before Paris fashion week, Alexander McQueen launched their largest international retail space on the ’a la mode’ Rue Saint-Honoré yesterday, a concept conceived by McQueen’s creative director Sarah Burton and executed by David Collins Studio.
Says Burton: ’The Paris store is a truly significant opening and we are very proud to finally have a flagship in such an inspirational city. I am excited that customers will get to experience this exclusive McQueen world and shop in an immersive environment.’ Sold.
Writer: Zoë Sinclair
Porter celebrates 80th anniversary with collaborative capsule collection
14 September
To celebrate its 80th anniversary, Japanese luggage specialist Porter has teamed up with a host of collaborators including Stone Island, Fragment Design, M/M Paris, Missoni, Paul Smith, Off-White and James Jarvis on a range of expertly-crafted bags covered in new prints.
Many of Porter’s classic styles are given a graphic overhaul, from Off-White’s hazard stripes to Missoni’s kaleidoscopic zig-zag pattern, whilst creative design unit M/M Paris use their ‘World of M/M’ motif to full-effect.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Off road: Anya Hindmarch’s Selfridges Service Station
11 September
This morning we stopped off at Selfridges for Anya Hindmarch’s pop-up Service Station – located just off the department store’s megawatt shoe department. With walls decorated with traffic cones, a faux sponge car wash and handsome attendants offering photo ops with Hindmarch’s sticker-covered Rolls-Royce Corniche, we happily refuelled at the London designer’s pumped-up pit-stop.
In addition to Hindmarch’s themed A/W 2015 bags and leathergoods, until the 14 September you can also pick up a selection of limited-edition branded trucker caps, fluffy dice, lighters, smiley face air fresheners, nodding dashboard dogs and designer condoms (for a fiver) in the kiosk. One for the road then.
Writer: Katrina Israel
iHermès
10 September
The amalgamation of the luxury and IT worlds hits a new high with the collaborative launch of the Apple Watch Hermès; the merging of craft and technology includes three new leather banded Apple Watch iterations – the Single Tour, Double Tour (pictured) and Cuff.
’Apple and Hermès make very different products, but they reflect the deep appreciation of quality design,’ says Jonathan Ive, Apple’s chief design officer. ’Both companies are motivated by a sincere pursuit of excellence and the desire to create something that is not compromised. Apple Watch Hermès is a true testament to that belief.’
Hermès’ executive vice president, Pierre-Alexis Dumas, shared the sentiment: ’At Hermès, we strive to provide our clients with elegant, creative and functional objects for their everyday lives. What more contemporary and relevant expression of this principle could there be than this collaboration with Apple.’ Hear, Hear.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Berluti puts a fringed foot forward
9 September
Generally speaking, the men’s derby category is a somewhat straight-laced affair. So leave it Berluti to imbue a little humour with its new detachable tongue fringes (aka Venezia neutro leather kilties) from it’s new ’Toys for Boys’ accessory line. Inspired by traditional golfing attire the customisable moustaches are a sartorial smile for any fashion-forward foot.
Writer: Katrina Israel
MANifest: Hermès launches its new men’s domain
8 September
Today, Hermès debuts its new virtual man cave, Le MANifeste d’Hermès: a channel completely dedicated to the universe of the house’s men’s creative director Véronique Nichanian, spanning ready-to-wear, leather goods and shoes.
The directional site offers a digital journey through the maison’s male domain via artful animations, striking graphics and films – all stylistically in tune with the Hermès’ playful creative vision, which now brings its menswear e-shop to life.
Writer: Katrina Israel
’Made in Japan’: Zegna’s new capsule collection
7 September
This week sees the launch of Ermenegildo Zegna’s limited edition ‘Made in Japan’ capsule collection. Consisting of a trans-seasonal wardrobe of iconic Zegna Couture pieces, the collection is designed by Stefano Pilati and continues his exploration of informal tailoring and broken suit concepts. All of the pieces are entirely made in Japan by local artisans and embrace traditional weaves and craft techniques unique to the country.
An exhibition by renowned photographer Takashi Homma and curated by Olivier Zahm accompanies the launch. Portraits of five opinion leaders representative of a cross-section of contemporary masculinity – an actor, architect, chef, creative director and musician – are shown wearing the collection in different scenarios, visually narrating the ‘Made in Japan’ concept from multiple perspectives.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Molten kicks: Puma X McQ
4 September
A/W 2015 sees Puma and McQ continue their collaborative efforts with a new sneaker collection that incorporates high shine, metallic finishes. Puma’s signature ’Disc Blaze’ style is reinvented in fresh colour combinations, while a brand new ’Tech Runner’ trainer heightens performance in this contemporary, unisex range.
Writer: Sophie Robyn Watson
Luella and Katie’s new venture
3 September
Hillier Bartley has landed. The much anticipated new partnership between London designers Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley – including ready-to-wear and accessories – hits stores this week. Their first A/W 2015 collection features luxury fabrics such as Savile Row cloth, velvet, merino wool and shearlings sourced from British mills; trims and finishing touches have been re-appropriated from stately upholstery, for a modern punk-ish feel. The collection is now available at MatchesFashion, Colette and Japan’s Biotop.
Writer: Sophie Robyn Watson
Plastic fantastic with N°21 and Kartell
2 September
N°21’s Alessandro dell’Acqua has tapped Italian design company Kartell to produce a one of a kind shoe collaboration. The collection, titled ‘Knot’, consists of a plastic flatform style sandal with a cleated sole and distinctive glossy ’bow’, which comes in black, dusty pink, mustard, khaki and Bordeaux. The shoe will be shoppable from January 2016 at the Massimo Bonini showroom and online.
Writer: Sophie Watson
Public School team up with Tumi
1 September
It’s nearly time to pack our bags for NYFW and, as chance would have it, luggage professionals Tumi have teamed up with Manhattan label Public School for a limited edition six-piece collection. The monochrome capsule includes two hard case sizes, a backpack, satchel, tote and grooming bag with a focus on organisation – which means compartments a-plenty.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Saint Laurent says goodbye to summer with the College bag
28 August
Saint Laurent has introduced the latest addition to its monogram family, the College bag. For the first time, the bag’s hardware has been rendered in in dark silver, resulting in a more accessible everyday look. In addition, the house have chosen a soft leather in dark neutrals for the build material – a subtle, elegant reference to the incoming autumn season.
Writer: Melinda Akerbrant
Yohji Yamamoto launches eyewear line
27 August
Taking inspiration from his original three-demand dictum, ’Dramatic, Avant Garde and/or Intelligent’, Yohji Yamamoto has launched his first eyewear collection – an intriguing collection of spectacles and sunglasses that warrant closer inspection.
Developed exclusively with materials specialist Mazzucchelli, the frames appear black at first; under examination, they reveal multiple layers of dark colours, creating a dense richness of tone that transcends the monochromatic starkness. The frame shapes range in style – from striking industro-chic to more classic midcentury designs – each reflecting Yamamoto’s rebellious spirit and love of form.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Bird of flight: Nazanin Rose Matin
26 August
After igniting her working career under the mentorship of the late Alexander McQueen, Nazanin Rose Matin spent seven years in Paris with Christian Lacroix, Céline and Kenzo, before founding her own eponymous accessories label earlier this year.
Inspired by her rich Persian heritage, the Saint Martins alumni’s first collection is dedicated to the scarf – her designs taking flight with exotic bird references from her family’s ranch. Designed in Paris and made in Italy, Matin’s handprinted, hand rolled silk and cashmere scarves bring a modern edge to this niche, artisan category.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Cos’ Regent Street store receives a covetable makeover
25 August
This week, Cos launches its A/W 2015 collection with the re-opening of its Regent Street store in London.
The space continues to feature the brand’s signature aesthetic of clean lines and spare simplicity – though its refreshed interior now also incorporates extensive oak flooring supplied by Dinesen, a ceiling light feature by Michael Anastassiades and design and pattern by COS itself.
Also dotted around the store are bespoke hand woven wool rugs by Kasthall, and a selection of timeless lounge chairs by Jean Prouvé, Hans Wegner, and Charles and Ray Eames, tactically placed for weary shoppers. It’s not often we get home interior envy from a fashion store, but here, Cos’ canny aesthetic sense has come up trumps again.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Bespoke lacings
24 August
Dior Homme has announced that it is expanding its made-to-measure suiting and shirt offering to include its Francois 1er Derby lace-ups. The bespoke service will be available across 23 of the maison’s global boutiques, for which creative director Kris Van Assche has chosen a range of colour options for the upper and outsoles, with the final bespoke pair delivered 4–5 months after the client’s consultation.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Joining the Smythson pack
21 August
Those in the market for an upmarket backpack need look no further than Smythson’s A/W 2015 Burlington collection. The hands-free staple is a welcome addition to the British leathergoods house’s travel essentials, handcrafted in soft deerskin and finished with light gold zipper hardware in sizes small and large. A gold star in sartorial schooling.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Seaweed and stalactites: Phoebe English’s visual diary
20 August
To accompany Phoebe English’s recent exhibition, ’Floating | Falling | Drowning | Flying’, the Now Gallery commissioned photographer Polly Brown to collate a visual diary, shadowing the fashion designer leading up to the opening.
‘Sifting though years of research, tests and twirls, I was drawn to the visual relationships that Phoebe creates between experimentation and design – swatches became seaweed and stitches stalactites,’ explains Brown. ’The book became a compilation of such finds and hopefully provides a small insight into the deep archive of Phoebe’s work.’
Floating | Falling | Drowning | Flying – An introspective of process is available online.
Writer: Zoë Sinclair
Dover Street (Hay) Market
19 August
DSM has always had a way with putting their own sartorial spin on scaffolding (it heralded the store’s 10th anniversary in September 2014) and the graphic cladding outside their new Haymarket location is no exception. After a decade on Mayfair’s Dover Street, the destination emporium is upscaling to three times its current size in London’s Covent Garden. Located within the original Burberry building (designed by Walter Cave in 1911), the store’s grand opening is slated for March 2016, while its fit out is under the direction of owner/Comme des Garçons designer Rei Kawakubo.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Foot to the floor: John Lobb reveals summer driving shoe
18 August
Along with store openings in both Hong Kong and Miami, John Lobb has introduced a new version of the driving shoe, slinkily titled the Lynther. Its light, hand-stitched suede is perfect for a warmer climate and is available in five colours, including dark green, dusk and ocean blue.
Writer: Melinda Akerbrant
Brooke Gregson: rock whisperer
17 August
London-based, Los Angeles-born jeweller Brooke Gregson has a unique penchant for setting precious gemstones, with an innate understanding of each rock’s talismanic powers – be they opals, labradorite or emeralds, mounted within in her signature molten gold. With a background that factored astronomy, textiles and geology prior to the founding of her own brand in 2004, it’s no surprise that the stone specialist couldn’t resist this turquoise table, on show at the latest Masterpiece London, for her tranquil Notting Hill boutique.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Nathalie Trad: clutch control
14 August
Here at W* we like just about everything to have an architectural bent, which is just what we found in Nathalie Trad’s A/W 2015 clutch bags. Working with precise geometries, the Parsons alumnus innovates with shapes that are either entirely organic or wonderfully graphic, each patterned with myriad materials – including a fusion of mother of pearl, shell, copper, resin and wood.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Undercover Acne
13 August
For the A/W 2015 season, Acne Studios are adding to their existing range of underwear in two vivid new shades of red and blue. The boxer brief Konrad and the classic brief Denise are both fashioned from 100 per cent pima cotton jersey, set on a waist band with the Acne Studios logo.
Writer: Zoë Sinclair
Bunney boys and girls
12 August
Fusing contemporary jewellery design with modern silversmithing is the craft-fuelled MO of London-based accessories brand Bunney. The unisex line’s offering ranges from beatnik pins, badges and studs, to more traditional jewellery chain bracelets and signet rings, along with objects including solid silver padlocks (referencing the contentious love locks found on bridges from Prague to Paris), gentleman’s lighters and hammered gold card cases.
Founded by Andrew Bunney in 2009, the eponymous studio works with artisanal workshops across England to produce hand crafted wares, which are hallmarked at the Goldsmiths’ Company before hitting stockists Colette and Dover Street Market.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Fendi’s Harrods pop-up
11 August
Fendi has once again taken over Harrods’ ground floor and Brompton Road windows with a summer pop-up space, this year modelled after the Roman house’s striking new Palazzo Della Cività headquarters.
In keeping with last year’s interactive theme park concept, the installation debuts a ’3DBaguette’ booth, allowing shoppers to design their own virtual Baguette bag.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Philipp Plein’s molten Monaco maison
10 August
Monte Carlo’s luxury hub, the Centre Commercial Le Metropole, unveiled a new retail resident in German design force Philipp Plein this past weekend. Laid out in an octagonal floor plan, the boutique’s exterior came composed entirely of glass, offering high-octane viewing both inside and out. Plein, who opened his first store in Monte Carlo in 2008, cast his latest casa in a fusion of black marble (for the men’s collection), polished stainless steel and white marble (for his women’s line), and white marble and satin brass for the kids’ area. And of course, what better time to open a store in the centre of the principality than early August?
Writer: Katrina Israel
House proud: Turnbull & Asser
7 August
In honour of Turnbull & Asser’s 130th anniversary year, the Royal Warrant shirtmaker has opened a new store at 4 Davies Street in Mayfair to accompany its Bury Street bespoke location. Designed by interior architects Shed, the 1000 sq ft store is spread across two floors and houses its ready-to-wear collection and bespoke shirt making service. Further expansion is also in the works, with the brand expanding its Gloucester work rooms and a second store slated for New York’s World Trade Centre later this year.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Liberty’s luggage imprint
6 August
With summer getaways on everyone’s mind this week, Liberty London has launched an updated luggage and bag line featuring a more graphic version of its heritage Iphis print, embossed in leather for A/W 2015. Further sweetening the deal are accompanying luggage tags, customisable in a range of hues.
Writer: Katrina Israel
’At Close Range’ – Kostas Murkudis and the MMK
5 August
The MMK Museum für Moderne Kunst Frankfurt am Main is staging the first comprehensive museum exhibition of the work of Kostas Murkudis, with exhibition and displays designed by artist Carsten Nicolai and the architect Aaron Werbick.
Containing archive material donated to the museum in 2013, the exhibition – on show until 14 February 2016 – attests to the sculptural and investigative approach of Murkudis’ work.
Writer: Zoë Sinclair
Louis Vuitton reveals vivid Escale Worldtime watch
4 August
The pixelated tiles of a strobing dance floor inspired Louis Vuitton’s colourful Escale Worldtime watch, designed in collaboration with Paul Pettavino for charity auction platform Only Watch. The globetrotting timepiece, studded with 26 rubies and featuring a hand painted dial and blue alligator strap, is the sixth example of the maison’s commitment to this unique charity auction and, of course, comes with its own one-of-a-kind travelling trunk.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Gucci’s Tribeca film fund
3 August
Gucci has once again pledged its support for the Tribeca Film Institute, this time with a 2015 award and $150,000 grant for documentaries which highlight and humanise global social issues. Now in its eighth year, the Gucci Tribeca Documentary Fund has selected ten projects from 540 submissions to receive this year’s support, including Roll Red Roll, directed and produced by Nancy Schwartzman, which deals with social media’s role in documenting and uncovering a serious crime that divided the football town of Steubenville, Ohio in 2012.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Oyuna for the boys
31 July
Directional cashmere brand Oyuna debuts its first menswear collection for A/W 2015, landing in stores this week. Working with the label’s signature Mongolian yarn, the capsule cashmere collection includes easy pullovers and textural scarves along with a particularly smart reversible jacket that sits seamlessly with the lifestyle brand’s stripped back oeuvre.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Elsa Schiaparelli’s cabinets de curiosités
30 July
The French house of Schiaparelli may have a new creative director in Bertrand Guyon, but its Place Vendôme maison is still entirely under the spell of Elsa. Her faithful donkey Bimbo continues to stand guard, while the house’s corridors are littered with wunderkammers including Schiaparelli’s personal Salvador Dali-designed ’telephone’ powder compact, which Guyon reworked as a clutch bag for his debut couture show.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Loewe’s Balearic Summer Shop
29 July
This week, Loewe opens a Summer Shop at Ibiza’s MACE Museum of Contemporary Arts, located in the island’s historic Dalt Vila old town. The space will host the brand’s John Allen collection, a line of accessories inspired by the artist’s vibrant use of colour and abstract depictions of the British landscape, along with a selection of items from the S/S 2015 ready to wear range.
The store will remain open until 6 September.
Photography: Frank Weyrauther; Writer: Jason Hughes
Laurafed thinks inside the box for clutch collection
28 July
Laura Federici and Luca Sciamanna’s Laurafed is a lifestyle brand born of a desire to create objects mixing basic and precious materials with a balance of form and function, sitting somewhere between interior design and fashion.
This ethos is neatly realised in ’bag in a box’, the motif for the duo’s A/W 2015 clutch collection. Constructed in solid, ethically-sourced chestnut and embellished with satin and eco-leather, the set comprises 22 variations drawn from three basic models: 10.4, a chain shoulder bag; 10.5, which also includes two eco-leather handles; and 10.6, a curvy iteration ‘enriched’ with plumes and metal studs. Each bag in the expanded range is named after a different airport – ‘an invitation to collect them all as stamps on a passport’.
Writer: Tom Howells
Stepping up: Eytys’ leather hi-tops
27 July
There are plenty of sneaker brands around, but we haven’t seen one garner as many converts around town as Eytys since Converse teamed up with Comme des Garçons. Founded by Swedish trainer aficionados Jonathan Hirschfeld (a former investment banker at Crédit Agricole) and Max Schiller (of Acne Studios) in 2013, the unisex sneaker brand (pronounced ‘80s’ and spelled with ‘Ys’ for Gen Y), is readily identifiable by its platform rubber sole and purple heel pull-loops.
In addition to points of sale at Colette, LN-CC, Dover Street Market and Matchesfashion.com, the partnership has also spawned an illusively cool flagship store – located between two Bangladeshi restaurants in Stockholm’s Hötorget neighbourhood.
Photography: Dafy Hagai; Writer: Katrina Israel
Liberty: the art of the scarf
24 July
Delving deep into its historical archive, Liberty has reworked twelve classic floral designs for its newly launched The Art of the Scarf collection. Taking inspiration from expressionist artist Franz Klein, Hans Hofmann and Jackson Pollock, splashes and strokes make their mark on the collection, which celebrates the store’s arts and craft signature.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Armani’s latest film alliance
23 July
He rose to fame via the Hollywood red carpet, relaxing the strong shouldered men’s suits of the 1980s with his soft tailoring, while dressing heroines in elegant columns. In honour of these roots, Giorgio Armani has now partnered with the BFI London Film Festival for the second edition of his Films of City Frames project. The programme aims to uncover new talent by shining a light on international film schools, including facilities in Sydney, Seoul (pictured), São Paulo and Turin. The selected students’ short films will then be presented in October, at the 59th edition of the annual London festival. ’Making of’ previews can be viewed here.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Denim boarding
22 July
Here at Wallpaper* we like our denim in almost any form or shape. Just as well, as that’s what we encountered with New York denim brand 3x1 (founded by Scott Morrison of Paper Denim & Cloth and Earnest Sewn fame), when they collaborated with the Brooklyn-based Token Surfboards on a series of boards replete with denim sleeves and selvedge travel bags. The pairing was in honour of the denim brand’s Southampton store, open this summer following their inaugural Mercer Street Soho locale.
44A Main Street, Southampton NY, 11968
Writer: Katrina Israel
Orlebar Brown and Marcello Morandini’s swim short collaboration
21 July
This season, Orlebar Brown collaborates with Italian artist Marcello Morandini on a capsule collection. Known for his monochrome works that encompass different mediums – from graphics to sculpture, through architecture and ceramics – the collection embraces Morandini’s unique approach to pattern and design, applying his signature illusory geometric prints to Orlebar Brown’s Bulldog and Setter signature swim shorts (as well as a series of tees).
The collection is available at Orlebar Brown stores internationally and online.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Zimmermann’s new Los Angeles maison
20 July
Australian fashion and swimwear brand Zimmermann has taken up residence on LA’s iconic Melrose Place for its second Californian store, and fourth US outpost. The 3,000 sq m white washed loft space, which was previously an antiques store, has been designed by Sydney firm Meacham Nockles McQualter and shares some pretty fashionable neighbours on The Row, in Isabel Marant and Marni. That said, it’s just what you would expect from such a legendary address.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Roger Vivier reveals tribal tassels and woven leatherwork in ’Gipsy Night’
17 July
Bruno Frisoni’s latest demi-couture ’Rendez-Vous’ collection for Roger Vivier – titled ’Gipsy Night’ – debuted a softer, cross-body-chain reincarnation of the iconic Miss Viv’ bag. In addition, the house revealed a footwear repertoire comfortably set within the world of Peter Beard’s Kenyan photography, thanks to Frisoni’s intricately braided and woven leatherwork, and tribal tassels (it would also be perfectly at home at Studio 54).
Writer: Katrina Israel
Alberta Ferretti’s new flou
16 July
The Italian designer’s demi couture collection comes to life in the gilded mouldings, friezes and arabesques of her new 19th century Paris HQ, located alongside the Alberta Ferretti boutique on rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. The regal hôtel particulier, formally owned by the Rothschild family, also offered an elegant backdrop to the collection, its wedding-worthy sheaths embroidered with pearls and jewelled flowers.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Lacoste reveals new limited edition Lesage collaboration
15 July
Inspired by the Lacoste x Maison Lesage Couture polo shirt collection, a limited edition of four new styles of polo will be launched this month as a second venture with the iconic French embroidery house – this time with the crocodile emblem embroidered and placed on the collar.
The shirts will be available from Dover Street Market London, Dover Street Market Ginza Tokyo, Le Bon Marché Paris and 10 Corso Como Milan.
Photography: Courtesy of Lacoste; Writer: Zoë Sinclair
Giampiero Bodino brings a taste of his Milanese casa to Paris
14 July
Jeweller extraordinaire Giampiero Bodino introduced a flavour of his grand 1930s Milan casa – Villa Mozart, designed by Piero Portaluppi – to Le Bristol, Paris, during his presentation there this week. We loved that he tore pages from his trademark studio sketch books of jewels and transformed the room with them, by way of these decorative screens.
Writer: Caragh McKay
Marco De Vincenzo’s resort debut and bags to come
13 July
We caught up with Marco De Vincenzo in Paris during his first resort presentation, inspired by the bold colours and graphic shapes of Pierre Cardin. ‘For a young designer it’s a kind of mission to think of something special,’ he explains of his success with statement pieces, which for pre-collection sees fringing cut into spheres and coloured beads dotting black tailoring. ‘When I started, the stores were a little afraid of eccentric pieces but now these are the ones that are selling very well,’ he says. ‘Maybe in a year they will ask for something more basic!’
Vincenzo, who is still working with Fendi on their accessories collection, also hinted that his own handbag collection is not too far off: ‘I never thought about a bag without double Fs, so it’s a little strange!’ he laughs. ’It’s been 15 years of collaboration, so its something that I’m very excited and curious about.’ For the meantime, though, we’re rather taken with his plaited sandals.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Always look up
10 July
It’s no wonder that Paris’ Art Deco Théâtre des Champs-Élysées, with its incredible vaulted ceiling, has formally housed a Chanel fine jewellery presentation owing to its ’camellia’ motif, but it was most recently the site for Fendi’s debut haute couture show. Designed by French architect Auguste Perret in 1913, the historic theatre also famously hosted the Ballet Russes for its first season.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Tory Burch celebrates Paris opening with Hôtel de Sully party
9 July
The American in Paris, Tory Burch, celebrated the opening of a 4,200 sq ft rue Saint-Honoré flagship with a Moroccan-style Maharaja tent party – inspired by her Marrakech-meets-Chelsea A/W 2015 collection and littered with textiles from her interiors offering. Within the formal gardens of the Marais’ Hôtel de Sully, the Place des Vosges celebration saw Lauryn Hill perform to an audience that included designers Giambattista Valli, Olivier Rousteing, JW Anderson and Bruno Frisoni.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Kenzo unveils film collaboration with Greg Araki
8 July
For A/W 2015, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have collaborated with renowned independent filmmaker Greg Araki on a short film for Kenzo. Here Now echoes Araki’s ’Teenage Apocalypse Trilogy’ and features costumes from the label’s A/W 2015 men’s and women’s collections.
Released to coincide with the opening of Kenzo’s newly designed store on London’s Bruton Street, you can watch the film here.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Chaumet reveals ’Rondes de Nuit’ ring for Paris Couture Week
7 July
An emphasis on sizeable white stones, voluminous forms and bold combinations of cuts is emerging in the high jewellery collections currently being unveiled in venues across the city for Paris Couture Week. This exquisite mish-mash is brilliantly played out in Chaumet’s ’Rondes de Nuit’ Josephine ring, where platinum and both brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds are playfully crowned with a 3ct, pear shaped jewel.
Writer: Caragh McKay
Álvaro’s Couture Week Colette debut
6 July
Leading on from his new men’s bag line, Spanish accessories designer Álvaro González debuted his new women’s Agata style at Colette today, coinciding with Paris Couture Week. Colette was the first to stock Álvaro’s men’s sandals and belts back in 2013, so his bucket bag launch is a welcome homecoming.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Woolrich takes the heat out of outerwear for S/S 2016
3 July
Breathable yet waterproof, practical yet elegant, Woolrich has once again teamed up with Gore-Tex® on a new capsule range of macs and trenches that are fit for the summer months. The house may be celebrating its 185th anniversary year, but the ’Weston’ series’ high-tech weather-resistant membrane furthers the outdoor clothing brand’s future-focused look back at its classic archive jackets.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Raf Simons continues to tweak the Stan Smith shoe
2 July
Luxury designer Raf Simons continues to apply his notorious twist to the iconic Stan Smith tennis shoe, first produced by Adidas in the 1960s. New for the S/S 2016 season is the Stan Smith Strap, featuring Raf Simons embossed branding, classic coloured leather, and a Velcro strap a la 1980.
The new collection will be available mid-February 2016, at Adidas concept stores and select boutiques worldwide.
Photography courtesy of Adidas; Writer: Melinda Akerbrant
Pal Zileri present avant-garde and geometric collections
01 July
Fresh from their catwalk debut for S/S 2016 in Milan, Italian tailoring brand Pal Zileri continue to move forward with a website relaunch. This coincides with their new A/W 2015 campaign promoting the brand’s ’Avant-Craft’ concept, where traditional Italian craftsmanship meets avant-garde design. Stores will undergo a makeover later in the year.
For S/S 2016, creative director Mauro Ravizza Krieger took inspiration from 20th century kinetic and optical art in a collection where geometric patterns covered suits and colours were subtly layered upon each other in shirts, t-shirts and knits.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Cartier bring the elegance to Goodwood Festival of Speed
30 June
Among the roaring engines, bales of hay and motor oil, Cartier’s ’Style et Luxe’ concours d’elegance display at last weekend’s Goodwood Festival of Speed celebrated the culture of classic car design with true French flair. As John Carter’s Fragonard-style Cartier floral displays attested, lunch on the lawn of Goodwood House is a pretty chic affair too. As stylish as al fresco dining next to a racetrack is ever likely to get, in fact.
Writer: Caragh McKay
Dauphin reconnects with photographer Paolo Roversi
29 June
Contemporary fine jeweller Charlotte Dauphin de La Rochefoucauld has once again collaborated with celebrated photographer Paolo Roversi and model Saskia de Brauw for ’Collection II’ – a beguiling set dominated by broken geometries and pavé diamond lattice-work.
Photography: Paolo Roversi; Writer: Katrina Israel
London jeweller Completed Works’ hostile takeover
26 June
You could be mistaken for thinking that it’s all out war in the contemporary jewellery market as brother/sister duo Completed Works trade in a Classical marble pillar for a diamond encrusted tank as the central motif for their second bijou collection.
It’s (conceptually) weighty stuff: their ’Tank’ line of bracelets, rings and necklaces was inspired by 1989 images of protesters at Tiananmen Square. With the ring pictured left, designer Anna Jewsbury’s politically charged concept was to crush her Cold War tank with a giant South Sea pearl.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Rick Owens shows work alongside Carol Rama
25 June
Boldly punctuating the ’Passion According to Carol Rama’ exhibition at the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, Rick Owens’ furniture sits in perfect unison to the Italian artist’s work. The exhibition runs until 12 July.
11 Avenue du Président Wilson, 75116 Paris, France
Photography: Adrien Dirand; Writer: Zoë Sinclair
KENZO reveal practical Bike Bag collection
24 June
Earthy tones, spiked leather, and smooth suede, all in a practical shape for people on the go: that’s the look of the new KENZO Bike Bag, designed by creative directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim – heady accents to the silhouettes of the 2015 Fall-Winter collection.
Photography: Courtesy of KENZO; Writer: Melinda Akerbrant
Tea with Puiforcat
23 June
Ahead of the fifth annual Masterpiece art and antiques fair’s opening this Thursday at the Royal Hospital Chelsea, we dropped by for tea with the Hermès-owned house of Puiforcat and fell into lust with this rather haute ’Service à thé café Nuage’ tea and coffee set.
Masterpiece London 2015, South Grounds, The Royal Hospital Chelsea, London, SW3 4LW
Writer: Katrina Israel
Dior’s sculptural Seoul flagship
22 June
From its Tokyo pre-collection show to a new store opening in Seoul, team Dior have been busy in South East Asia this month. The luxury brand’s latest retail temple in Gangnam-Gu has been conceived by Pritzker Prize winning French architect Christian de Portzamparc, with interiors by regular collaborator Peter Marino. The sail-like folds of the exterior were inspired by the drape of toile fabric from the house’s couture atelier albeit composed of fibreglass and resin, while the internal spiral staircase shines in reflective silver. The 6-floor mega store also houses a café by Pierre Hermé for a mid-shop refresher.
464 Apgujeong-Ro
Gangnam-Gu, Seoul, Korea
Photography: Courtesy of Dior; Writer: Katrina Israel
Maison Kitsuné’s new Paris address
19 June
Architectural firms HAau and Nicolas Dorval-Bory collaborated on electronic music and fashion label Maison Kitsuné’ latest multi-storey Parisian outpost that had us seeing spots thanks to Max Lamb’s customised terrazzo marble that also leapt onto the brand’s ’Marmoreal’ clothing collection. Also not to be missed: the underground café/wine cave.
18 Boulevard Filles Du Calvaire
75011 Paris
Photography: Jean Picon / Say Who; Writer: Katrina Israel
Dior’s pink carpet returns
18 June
Creative director Raf Simons and production moguls Bureau Betak transformed the Tokyo National Arts Centre earlier this week for a re-showing of Dior A/W ’15–’16. The corrugated walls of the 14,000 sq m space were complimented by a pale pink carpet, the same candy hued flooring that originally set off the Paris runway. Models entered and exited from moving escalators, accompanied by a track from the American Gigolo soundtrack, Giorgio Moroder’s The Apartment.
Photography: Martin Holtkamp; Writer: Melinda Akerbrant
Issey Miyake’s new bag follows the fold
17 June
Named ’The Guston’, this new bag is an amalgamation of the famous fashion house’s design codes: guided, structure, one leather. Printed geometric guidelines encourage an interactive experience creating the bag’s structure from a single piece of leather.
Issey Miyake Guston, £2,085, www.isseymiyake.com/guston
Photography: Courtesy of Issey Miyake; Writer: Zoë Sinclair
Reda 1865’s anniversary exhibition
16 June
To celebrate its 150th anniversary, Italian textile company Reda 1865 enlisted five Magnum photographers to explore the processes behind its fabrics. The striking images were presented through an installation that enhanced the qualities of the material, from the raw wool to the finished textile in London over the weekend.
Writer: Rosa Bertoli
Toogood for Dover Street Market Tokyo
15 June
The Toogood sisters invaded the windows of Tokyo’s Dover Street Market to trumpet the arrival of their A/W Collection 003’s white washed Beekeeper coat and the Milkman jacket. Designer Faye Toogood also conceived the viscous white and cream landscape of urban ’boulders’, which were reigned over by a resplendent life-size elephant.
Ginza Komatsu West 6-9-5, Ginza Chuo-ku, Tokyo 104-0061, Japan
Photography: Toogood; Writer: Katrina Israel
Burberry opens Thomas’s café
12 June
The British brand has expanded its 121 Regent Street store to accommodate its first café appropriately coined Thomas’s after its founder’s first name. The all-day dining spot is serving quintessentially British food from afternoon tea to an upmarket lobster and chips.
121 Regent Street, London W1B 4TB
Photography: Courtesy of Burberry; Writer: Misha Skelly
Kim Jones’ tribute to Christopher Nemeth at Louis Vuitton’s New Bond Street Maison
11 June
In celebration of Kim Jones’ A/W 2015 show homage to the late British designer Christopher Nemeth, Louis Vuitton’s men’s artistic director hosted a tribute party at the house’s London apartment. The happening began with Jones in conversation with all-round creative Judy Blame, who together recalled Nemeth’s impact on the 1980s fashion scene. The talk was then followed by the unveiling Jones’ first curated bookshelf, in store for the duration of LC:M.
Photography: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton; Writer: Katrina Israel
Brioni’s RCA partnership
10 June
In an initiative that celebrated its eighth collaborative year, tailoring house Brioni and creative director Brendan Mullane invited RCA MA menswear fashion design students to take part in a week of training at Brioni’s tailoring workshop ’The Scuola di Alta Sartoria’, located in Penne, Italy. Themed ’70 years of history, 70 years of future’ in honour of brand’s 70th anniversary, the students were set the task of designing a suit that combined the house’s sartorial expertise with their own vision of the future. The project’s three names-to-watch included Shinhwan Kim, Niels Gundtoft Hansen and Isabella Macloud.
Photography: Courtesy of Brioni; Writer: Zoe Sinclair