Bastard Restaurant, Mäster Johansgatan 11, Malmö, Sweden
Andreas Dahlberg is 31 and has been cooking for more than half his life. A year ago he and a partner opened Bastard, an easygoing place with a big-city feel, bare wood tables, and a long bar serving organic wines. Though Dahlberg was actually born out of wedlock, the name was chosen simply because it’s ’punchy, it stands out, it’s not too long.’ That’s the sort of Nordic directness that you will find in his dishes, made with just a few ingredients, carefully sourced, and for the most part locally. Espousing ‘nose to tail eating’ à la Fergus Henderson, Dahlberg manages to work miracles with bits of animal that aren’t, in essence, that appetising – we’re talking trotters, ox cheek, tongue. Portions are generous, flavours earthy but rounded. He insists on ’happy’ animals, which means that when he can’t find lamb, chickens or beef raised with love he won’t serve them. Fortunately, he has a good pork producer, so you can always count on finding the Bastard Planka, an assortment of sausages, pâtés, and rillettes, many of them housemade, served with Swedish butter and sourdough bread. He loves serving off-cuts such as beef heart in a variety of ways, including grilled, thinly sliced and marinated with capers, garlic, and balsamic vinegar. He calls his cuisine ’contemporary European home cooking,’ though with typical Nordic humility he says it’s a work in progress.
Sample dish: The ’Bastard Planka’ , a mix of pâtés, sausages, hams and rillette served with homemade sourdough and swedish butter.
Photograph by Per-Anders Jörgensen