Character studies: Vetements’ identity-exploring A/W 2017 collection
Celebrating its 40th anniversary this year, the Centre Pompidou in Paris welcomes between 3.5 and 3.8 million international visitors every year. Its double-height forum, an expansive space comprised of escalators leading to upper galleries and hanging illuminated signs, was also the location of Vetements’ A/W 2017 show, held for the second time as part of January’s haute couture schedule.
Two familiar sights at the Centre Pompidou, ‘Tourist’ – a male figure imagined in beige Bermuda shorts and a clear plastic raincoat – and ‘La Parisienne’ – a woman clad in a camel trenchcoat, pointed shoes and a printed silk-scarf – were just two of the stereotypes explored by Demna Gvasalia in his identity-focussed A/W 2017 men’s and women’s offering.
The show saw a range of street-cast models spanning ages and builds descending the escalators of the forum, imagined as characters including the leather coat clad ‘Metalhead’, padded parka wearing ‘Granny’ and the ‘Secretary’, imagined in a pencil skirt and high heeled pumps, modelled by the show’s stylist Lotta Volkova.
From deconstructed MA-1 bomber jackets patchworked together in maroon, grey, khaki and navy, to puffer-jackets in electric blue vinyl and plaid, Vetements’ A/W 2017 show saw its cult signature styles presented alongside newly developed silhouettes and fabrications. The collection also featured knee-length mink coats and a Chanel-like two piece suit, labeled with witty dotted cut-here scissor lines. Echoing the haute-couture predilection for showcasing bridal gowns, seen at both Ralph & Russo and Giambattista Valli, the show closed with a ‘Bride’, wearing a jacket and skirt with attached trackpants, with one of the layers of the skirt thrown over her head like a veil.
INFORMATION
For more information, visit the Vetements website
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
-
The Emory, RSHP’s first luxury hotel in London, is a rising star
New London hotel The Emory presents the perfect showcase of RSHP’s signature functionalist style and hospitality group Maybourne’s elevated luxury
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
‘Born in Oasi Zegna: The Book’ looks back to the house’s Alpine roots
Published by Rizzoli, ‘Born in Oasi Zegna’ looks towards the Oasi Zegna natural territory in the Italian Alps, where ZEGNA opened its first wool mill in 1910 and has since fostered a thriving natural ecosystem of more than 500,000 trees
By Jack Moss Published
-
The New York art exhibitions to see now
From MoMA to the smaller spaces, here are the best New York art exhibitions to catch before in May 2024.
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2020 Editor’s Picks
From Vetements fashion show in McDonalds, to Rocha's floral-filled runway, we round up the Wallpaper* Editor's Picks of Paris Fashion Week Men's S/S 2020...
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Fan mail: the greatest S/S 2018 fashion week invitations
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Vetements A/W 2015
By Kate Hulme Last updated