RELATED TOPICS: LOUIS VUITTON, HERMÈS, DIOR, LANVIN, VALENTINO, KENZO, RAF SIMONS, BEAUTY & GROOMING, PAUL SMITH, RICK OWENS, DRIES VAN NOTEN, ACNE STUDIOS, CERRUTI 1881 PARIS, HAIDER ACKERMANN, KRIS VAN ASSCHE, GIVENCHY
The men's grooming trends that shaped the Paris Fashion Week S/S 2015 shows
The men's grooming trends that shaped the Paris Fashion Week S/S 2015 shows
Dior Homme: Kris Van Assche's latest collection for Dior Homme merged the businessman with the bohemian artist. To that end, Anthony Turner kept hair groomed, and softly set in place, whilst working with the natural texture of each boy's mop. Lucia Pica kept faces clean with a defined cheekbone and perfectly matte skin
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Acne Studios: Three words inspired Acne's menswear collection: awkward, askew and askance. These were also reflected in the hair direction with models' fringes gelled or tucked to one side to create a more graphic shape around the face. To contrast, skin was kept bare, with a luminous glow
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Paul Smith: Sir Smith brought the outside in for S/S 2015 with green foliage replacing last season's oriental carpets, and with it came an inherent calmness. This ease was also echoed in the grooming, which saw Matt Mulhall create an artfully messy style that looked as though the boys had fallen asleep in a park on a warm summer afternoon. As sunglasses shielded eyes, make-up artist Lynsey Alexander added in a little bronzer to warm the skin
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Hermès: Designer Véronique Nichanian has mastered the art of casual, but extremely luxurious summer dressing. To co-ordinate, Vi Sapyyapy created a hair look that was perfectly in sync, read: cool, relaxed and softly textured. Alexandra Schiavi's make-up was similarly dewy and fresh, delivered with a rested, just-returned-from-holiday ease
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Valentino: Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli's S/S 2015 collection may have taken inspiration from fantastical birds, beasts and butterflies, but their grooming took a more pared-back turn. Classic, but not overly tidy, side partings were paired with clean, matt skin
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Kenzo: Carol Lim and Humberto Leon's passion for colour was repeated in this season's make-up with Aaron de Mey painting bold blocks of colour on select models' cheekbones or foreheads. To counterbalance, Anthony Turner left the hair natural, using just a little gel to add texture
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Haider Ackermann: Hair was gently slicked back, or carefully ruffled to match Ackermann's languid silks and relaxed tailoring for S/S 2015, while skin was left dewy to reflect the show venue's early evening sun
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Dries Van Noten: The Belgian designer envisaged a more 'sensual' Van Noten man for S/S 2015, his inspiration drawn from Soviet-born ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev. As a result, the season's grooming look resembled a man who had just finished rehearsal. Cue softly flushed pink cheeks giving the impression of exertion, and gently tousled hair suggesting movement
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Cerruti 1881: Inspired by a recent trip to California, Aldo Maria Camillo took a more relaxed approach to dressing for S/S 2015. This was similarly reflected in the grooming that saw Matt Mulhall offering up wet-look hair, as Karim Rahman prepped the skin to be neither too tanned, nor pale, instead alluding to the light touch of the West Coast sun
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Raf Simons: In a show that was a tender revisiting of some of Simons' most valued memories, the season's youthful casting left little work for Peter Phillips when it came to the models' fresh, clear skin. Hair on the other hand was greased, and left long, with delicate extensions falling casually over the face. The effect recalled Simons' own long hair era, documented by a teenage passport photo of the designer that was pinned to the back of one of his jackets
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Kris Van Assche: Reaching ten years of his eponymous label, Kris Van Assche's S/S 2015 collection was both a celebration of the past and a glimpse into his future. The show's grooming, however, was entirely dedicated to youth. Gina Van Den Bergh left a heavy shine on the high points of the face, whilst Anthony Turner pulled the models' straightened hair forward as fringes, adding some texture in the back, to reduce any heaviness as hair fell over their eyes
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Givenchy: Riccardo Tisci showed both men's and women's looks on the runway this season, leaving stylist Luigi Murenu to bring coherence to the hair line-up by utilising sheer, black unisex skullcaps. Pat McGrath left the models' skin clear, merely adding a light sheen, while brushing brows upwards to keep the look strong
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Louis Vuitton: Kim Jones journeyed to India, his exotic travels also inspiring make-up maestro Peter Phillips' approach. As a result, the artist brought a warmth to the skin, leaving it sun-kissed with a gentle glow. Guido Palau in turn smoothed hair into neat side-partings that weren't heavy on product or fuss
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Rick Owens: The American designer's collection was inspired by a mischievous faun. To reflect the mythology theme, hair was artfully slicked back and held in place with plenty of gel - the shape's pointed sweep almost mimicking the ears of a mystical animal. Skin was left mostly bare, save for a few looks, which saw Lucia Pieroni use full body make-up to paint models in Owens' new pastel palette
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Lanvin: The S/S 2015 Lanvin man is on the move with designer Lucas Ossendrijver contemplating how men travel around a city. For Guido Palau and Houda Remita this meant a grooming look that was quick and fuss free. Hair was not overly styled, looking freshly washed with a little product to hold it in place, while skin was moisturised and powdered
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
