The grooming trends that defined Paris Fashion Week A/W 2014
The grooming trends that defined Paris Fashion Week A/W 2014
Dries Van Noten: Make-up artist Peter Philips kept faces bare in contrast to the designer's neon-hued show, with bold black eyes that spoke of 1960s block minimalism. The look was completely in tune with Van Noten's Op-Art patterns, spirals and swirls
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Gareth Pugh: Alex Box fashioned a flock of pared-down Marie Antoinettes for Gareth Pugh's show. Woven hairnets and chalky faces, set against Pugh's striking, ice white silhouettes, were reminiscent of a resplendent Louis XVI style, stripped back to 'nude beginnings…an innocent, raw sketch'
Vionnet: Goga Ashkenazi's architectural collection for Vionnet was notable for its lack of embellishment; Tom Pecheux's make-up direction for the show was no different. Eyes proved to be the focus and were kept simple and strong with structural black spikes - think Twiggy with a twist
Balmain: Tom Pecheux created 'natural' Balmain girls this season. Bare-faced beauty 'with a little brow' was the look, as Balmain's leathers, exotic prints and safari khakis were complemented by nude skin and sharp centre-partings. Both raw and wild, it ferociously declared that the no-makeup trend is here to stay
Rick Owens: With the smoothest of ivory skin and artfully untamed brows, the models (and real women) cast at Rick Owens were transformed into 'other worldly' creatures by Lucia Pieroni
Lanvin: Cat's eyes were given the smoky treatment by Pat McGrath at Lanvin. Luscious false lashes were trimmed into blocks to frame dense black lids, creating a pack of dark and dangerous femmes fatales. Hair, if not hidden by elaborate headgear, was immaculately groomed, contrasting with the scruffy eye make-up
Isabel Marant: With faces left au naturel, the Isabel Marant girls glowed as Sam McKnight's beach-fresh tresses lent an air of nonchalant glamour
Maison Martin Margiela: Peter Philips created a harmony of opposites, artfully balancing the masculine with the super-feminine for Maison Martin Margiela - mirroring the collection. Modestly minimal make-up, mature and unfussy hair (by Guido Palau) and brushed brows - often creating an androgynous look - were tempered with faintly blushing lips and sparkling eyes
Christian Dior: Pat McGrath was on hand to turn models into glam-rock goddesses at Dior with glitzy metallic eyes and Ziggy Stardust cheekbones, perfectly matched to the girls' sculptural, swept-back hair
Roland Mouret: Giving the models' full lips, slender brows and hair as poker-straight as Pocahontas', Val Garland created the 'native American girl in the Roland Mouret style' - that being stylish, timeless and feminine. Strong, black eye make-up kept the look on the right side of safe
Haider Ackermann: Yadim created a 'blue print of a deconstructed society woman' at Haider Ackermann. Hair was kept in 1950s turbans, as though straight from a Billy Wilder movie, and slender strands of elastic were glued in graphic arches onto brows, creating a mob of modern-day Marlene Dietrichs
Acne Studios: Aaron de Mey highlighted unearthly pale skin with lip gloss at Acne, giving the girls a hi-shine appearance, straight out of hyperspace. Lips, meanwhile, were emphatically matte. Combined with Anthony Turner's wet-look hair, it made the models look extraterrestrial, perfectly in keeping with some of the collection's more futuristic pieces
Chloé: The Chloé girl was natural and wild looking this season, with wide eyes and flowing hair. Eyelids the colour of lilacs, dewy skin and flowing Botticelli-inspired locks signalled the arrival of a fresh, bright and modern antidote to the colder months
Kenzo: The look at Kenzo was '1950s with a slight punk edge'. The edge in question came courtesy of Aaron de Mey, who electrified vintage flicks with Klein blue liner. Skin was otherwise left demurely bare
Givenchy: Pat McGrath at Givenchy reminded us that statement brows aren't going anywhere. Brushed-up, bushy and bleached, they were central to a futuristic Snow Queen look, amplified by strong, highlighted cheekbones in glimmering fawn and fierce bronze
Akris: Diane Kendal and Guido Palau kept things light and crisp at Akris, with drenched hair scraped back off the face and hardly a scrap of make-up on the models' lightly honeyed skin. Bleached brows and flash-bulb highlights kept things up to date
Giambattista Valli: The designer enlisted Val Garland to create this season's 'handsome heroes'. Massaging moisturiser rather than make-up onto the models' faces, Garland gave their skin a subtle, pearly sheen, suggestive of the 'beauty and simplicity of really perfect-looking natural skin'
Sacai: The heavy layers and rich palette of Sacai's collection were contrasted by barely-there make-up and loose faux-bobs, fashioned by tucking the models' glossy hair into their collars. The resulting look was low-maintenance and effortlessly cool
Stella McCartney: Pat McGrath's girls at Stella McCartney were the picture of easy-going, carefree youth, with quiet smudges of caramel sitting above untouched lashes and just a slight semblance of a blooming blush on the cheeks. Otherwise, lightly golden skin was left nude, suggesting fading memories of the summer's sun
Alexander McQueen: Using rich metallics to contour otherwise ethereally pale skin, Pat McGrath transformed the models at Alexander McQueen into otherworldly warrior women. Hair was tightly woven into cornrowed skullcaps, leaving elfin ears revealed, creating an entrancing breed of mystical creatures
Moncler Gamme Rouge: With heavy fur hats and collars rising high, negligible skin was on show at Moncler Gamme Rouge. Consequently, Val Garland needed to keep things simple. These pristine beauties had nothing but a touch of barely-there eye shadow and the faintest gloss on pale pink lips, becoming the archetypal 'urban kids…global, young and fresh'
Hermès: With their sweeping side-partings and delicately rosy lips, models at Hermès emanated a subtle, turn-of-the-century vibe, utterly compatible with the collection's stealth silhouettes and Silk Road prints
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