British designer Stuart Vevers started work as Creative Director at the Spanish label Loewe in January 2008, debuting his first collection in March.
What attracted you to the job of creative Director at Loewe and why do you think they chose you?
The idea of a house with over 160 years of heritage and a unique knowledge of craftsmanship was very appealing. I`m also drawn to fact that Loewe is the only Spanish house at this level.
Loewe is part of the LVMH Group and I`ve worked with the group before, for Louis Vuitton and Givenchy, so we knew each other quite well. This made it seem like quite a natural move. My experience in leather goods, which is Loewe`s main business, I`m sure was a factor in why I was chosen.
How does it differ to your work at Mulberry?
Every house is always a completely different project with different ways of working and different skills. It`s hard to compare, there are lots of obvious similarities but the day to day is completely different, your head goes to a new place.
What are the label`s defining characteristics?
A unique knowledge and history in leather. It’s a rare resource. The head of the leather goods atelier, Angel, has been with Loewe for 50 years, that says a lot about their commitment to excellence.
How would you define your vision for the label?
Its about taking the very best of what the house stands for, its real authority, the element that make it special and remoulding it for the 21st century; a provocative take on the house`s classicism.
How did you approach your first collection?
It was quite instinctive. I really dug into the archive and found ideas and stories from the roots of the label then aimed to give them a fresh, surprising angle.
I wanted to begin the process of creating a strong, focused identity for the man and woman.
This was more important for me than achieving short-term goals or a seasonal must-have. I wanted to create a clear point of view.
Describe the collection in 5 words?
Spanish, provocative, sensual, rational and opulent.
What can we expect from your next collection?
I wanted a strong sense of continuity. It’s the same woman but with a seasonal development. It`s still very much an investigation into the essence of the Loewe house. A photograph of Paloma Picasso, a muse for A/W 08 and a continuing muse, with princess Stephanie of Monaco, a new season heroine, in the iconic night club Le Palace. Her scrubbed, boyish beauty on the single cover of Fleurs de mal inspired a cool riffing on nautical references: an intricate, layered organza rope dress and rich metal rope details on accessories.
We`re allowed to take you to one shop now, anywhere in the world-where should we take you?
Kiddy land in Tokyo. I can spend hours in there, we have a studio mascot from there - a big fluffy guinea pig we`ve called 'Keith'. We love him.
You`re allowed to take one other person-living or from history-who would you take?
My gran but from about 15 years ago. She would`ve found it hilarious.
Tell us something surprising about yourself?
I trained as a singer when I was young and I do a very impressive version of 'Purple Rain'.
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Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*. Having previously held roles at 10, 10 Men and AnOther magazines, he joined the team in 2022. His work has a particular focus on the moments where fashion and style intersect with other creative disciplines – among them art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and profiling the industry’s leading figures and brands.
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