Showmanship is almost as important as the clothes at the Menswear Collections, and if clothes make the man, it’s the production - and all that encompasses - that makes the show. Meticulous planning goes into each sartorial extravaganza and music is an element that no producer can afford to be blasé about.
This season’s soundtracks reflect this intense process, and the names below read like a roster of music royalty – past and present. Common themes do arise and an overarching presence of über-cool remixes and classic tracks abound throughout the productions of DJs like Michel Gaubert and Frederic Sanchez – names that hold as much weight as the artists they so carefully select.
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Thursday 24/06
Viktor & Rolf
Colourless Colour – La Roux, In For The Kill – La Roux, Bulletproof – La Roux
Live performance by La Roux
Rick Owens
Quoth – Polygon Window, I got a Feeling – Shit Robot
Music production: Jeff Judd
Louis Vuitton
Sähkörausku - Mika Vainio, Fluss Im Wasser - Thomas Fehlmann, Solid Sound - Factory Floor, Fornication In Space - Frankie Chan & Roel A. García, Aguirre - Popol Vuh, Words With The Shaman Part 2(incantation) - David Sylvian, Pharaohs - Tears For Fears, Joyeux Regrets Imprécis - Benjamin Lew, Silence – Portishead
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez
Jean Paul Gaultier
In the Light - Led Zeppelin, El Din (Part Two) - Shackleton, Dramatic Theme - Pink Floyd, Majorelles - Alain Chamfort, Hammam - Jerry De Sario, Hilal - U-Cef feat. Mirror System, Solo Darbuka - Chalf Hassan,
Hammam – Naguila, Let's Spend the Night Together - The Rolling Stones, Khalliouni Khalliouni - 123 Soleil & The Egyptian Orchestra
Music production: Mode-F
Dries Van Noten
The Gift - The Velvet Underground
Music production: Dries Van Noten team
Yohji Yamamoto
Gin Soaked Boy - Tom Waits, Les Baricades Mistérieuses - Elaine Comparone, Virginia Avenue - Tom Waits, Ol'55 - Tom Waits, Les Baricades Mistérieuses - Elaine Comparone, I Hope I Don't Fall In Love With You - Tom Waits, Les Sentiments. Sarabande - Blandine Verlet & François Couperin, Ice Cream Man - Tom Waits
Music production: Jiro Amimoto
Friday 25/06
Junya Watanabe Man
Idris – The New Mastersounds, Panama City – The Quantic Soul Orchestra, Soul Power – Various Artists, Thermal Bad – The New Mastersounds
Yves Saint Laurent
Cry, The Clock Said - Gary Numan, Yanvalou - Drummers of the Societe Absolument Guinin, Congo - Drummers of the Societe Absolument Guinin feat. Voodoo Drums
Sound production: Michel Gaubert
Walter Van Beirendonck
Before Tigers – Health, Anna Mae – Dragons of Zynth, Year of Silence – Crystle Castles, SHT MTN – Holy Fuck
Music production: Hellskitschen (Fabrice Acet and Christophe Martinon)
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus
The Rite – Lisa Gerrard, La Salida de Lima – Gustavo Santaolalla, Captain America – Kill for Total Peace, Shockwork – Test Dept, Agorn (Elements of complex variables) – The Glass Family Electric Band, Frontier – Dead Can Dance
Music production: Hellskitschen (Fabrice Acet and Christophe Martinon)
Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci
Masked ball - Jocelyn Pook, Cry little sister - Gerard mcMann, Mask - Bauhaus
Sound production: Frédéric Sanchez
Saturday 26/06
Dior Homme
2046 Main Theme (With Percussion) - Shigeru Umebayashi, Interlude (Instrumental) - Shigeru Umebayashi, Dark Chariot (Instrumental) - Peer Raben, 2046 Main Theme (With Percussion Train Remix, Instrumental) - Shigeru Umebayashi
Music production: Laurent Ballot, Nano de Clausel and Alexander Maxwell @ Mode-F
Hermès
India Song (bande originale du film) - Carlos d'Alessio, Big Jet Plane – Angus & Julia Stone, Because - The Beatles, Who Makes Your Money – Spoon, VCR (Matthew Dear remix) - The XX, Dance Yrself Clean - LCD Sound System
Raf Simons
Starla - Smashing Pumpkins, The Downward Spiral - Nine Inch Nails, Tonight, Tonight - Smashing Pumpkins
Sound production: Michel Gaubert
Sunday 27/06
Paul Smith
Cosmic Wheels – Donovan, Set Phasers to Stun – The Time and Space Machine, Masters of the Universe – Hawkwind, Whole Lotta Love (excerpt) - Led Zeppelin, Misty Mountain - Silver Apples, You Are The One – The Time and Space Machine, Immigrant Song - Led Zeppelin
Music production: Peter Smith and Andrew Hale
Dunhill
Only Love Can Break Your Heart - Saint Etienne, Waltz Darling - Malcolm McLaren
Music production: Kim Jones and Simon Parris
Thom Browne
Fitter Happier – Radiohead, Requiem For Soprano, Mezzo Soprano, Two Mixed Choirs and Orchestra – Francis Travis, The Blue Danube - Herbert von Karajan, Space Oddity - David Bowie
Music production: Michel Gaubert