Pal Zileri reopens London store with new commissioned artworks in line with a fresh, new vision
It's been less than a year since Mauro Ravizza Krieger took the helm at Pal Zileri, where he was charged with rejuvenating the brand that was, though still much loved by its loyal clientele, beginning to stagnate.
Two runway shows in Milan later, the brand has reopened its new look store on London's New Bond Street and embarked upon a new initiative, Avant Craft, which is as much a drive to support the works of up-and-coming international artists as it is a testament to Ravizza Krieger's creative philosophy.
Timed to coincide with Frieze London, British multimedia artist Amba Sayal-Bennett was commissioned to create three site-specific works for the store, which is done out in shades of grey with lots of brushed concrete and shiny metal fixtures.
Sayal-Bennett is known for her illustrative take on everyday items, which she translates into sculptural installations. For one piece, Brack and Brine, she draped sheets of transparent paper printed with graphic drawings of humdrum items like an iron's base or a lightbulb over the store's existing steel display stands.
For another, also on the ground floor, called Parse, she used an old school overhead projector to project a drawing on a piece of acetate that had been stuck with masking tape to the projector.
'Avant Craft is our philosophy because it was based on the mission of the company to evolve into the future while staying true to craftsmanship,' explains Krieger. 'We are here with these new pieces of art, with a new energy and a new collection. We start from the past but we are looking forward.'
Ravizza Kreiger said that the invitation to overhaul Pal Zileri, which was bought by an investment vehicle backed by a private investor group from Qatar last year, wasn't one he immediately wanted to accept. 'I thought, at first, the brand wasn't so interesting. The company was really classic, conservative Italian company,' he said. 'But then I looked at the potential and I got that it was a big challenge and a great opportunity. For the collection, we are always [focusing] on the attitude of a new consumer. It is a big challenge to bring together the old and new.'
He has edited down the brand's tailoring offering from 15 different fits to just three: conservative, contemporary and fashion, with a focus on a narrower silhouette. 'The reaction has been really quite good. We know we're in a conservative market but we saw that [our regular customers] started to immediately adopt the contemporary fit. I am happy with that.'
But the fight's not over. 'I guess we need about two or three more seasons before people will understand what we're trying to do.'
INFORMATION
Photography courtesy of Pal Zileri
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Chanel shows its sporting colours with a bold high jewellery collection
Chanel's high jewellery collection is inspired by its founder’s athletic aesthetic
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Sarah Solis’ first furniture collection is an homage to art deco
‘Is it weird to call furniture sexy?’ Los Angeles-based designer Sarah Solis discusses her debut furniture line and new brand and store, Galerie Solis
By Dan Howarth Published
-
‘Very Roman, very Bulgari’: Mary Katrantzou on the ancient roots of her opulent first accessories collection for Bulgari
Greek fashion designer Mary Katrantzou, Bulgari’s new creative director of leather goods and accessories, breaks down her debut ‘Calla’ collection for Wallpaper*
By Jack Moss Published
-
Frieze London 2024: everything to see and do
As London gears up for Frieze Week (9-13 October 2024), here are the must-sees inside and outside the fair
By Amah-Rose Abrams Last updated
-
Frieze New York 2024: what to see in and around the city
Frieze New York 2024 (until Sunday 5 May) sees the city’s ample spring season programming celebrated at The Shed
By Osman Can Yerebakan Published
-
Frieze LA 2024 guide: the art, gossip and buzz
Our Frieze LA 2024 guide includes everything you need to know and see in and around the fair
By Renée Reizman Published
-
Andrea Bowers’ sculptural chandelier for Ruinart reflects a shared commitment to environmental conservation
Andrea Bowers has partnered with Ruinart to create a work to be unveiled at Frieze LA, before it finds a permanent home at Maison Ruinart’s HQ in Reims
By Hannah Silver Published
-
MJ Harper’s performance piece at London’s Koko will close Frieze Week in style
Artist MJ Harper will premiere ‘Arias for a New World’ at Koko in London this Sunday, 15 October 2023
By Amah-Rose Abrams Published
-
The Modern Institute explores otherworldly narratives at Frieze London 2023
The Modern Institute is showcasing the work of artists Rachel Eulena Williams, Jim Lambie and Andrew Sim and more
By Anne Soward Published
-
Quayola x LG OLED bring digital Impressionism to Frieze London
Quayola x LG OLED present Jardins d’Été, an immersive work that mixes Old Masters’ florals with super vivid 4K technology
By Simon Mills Published
-
Frieze London 2023: what to see and do
Everything you want to see at Frieze London 2023 and around the city in our frequently updated guide
By Hannah Silver Last updated