In 2020, we’ve lost the contours of our bodies to oversized loungewear, our limbs folded into tracksuits or dressing gowns, our skin covered by soft creases. One designer excited about wearing clothes with a little more cling again is Yana Olenich. ‘I look forward to the time when women will wear fitted jackets, silhouette flattering suits, dresses and skirts,’ says the founder of the eponymous Ukrainian label Olēnich, which launched in 2016.
The slow fashion brand's A/W 2020 collection seamlessly sits between structure and slouch, featuring relaxed suiting, knitwear inspired by retro Seventies shades, and eco-leather dresses and tailoring that riffs on corsetry.
Olēnich A/W 2020
‘I’m fond of suit fabrics and office attire, however, these shapes can have an excessive seriousness which I prefer to dilute with sexuality,’ Olenich says of the pieces in autumn’s offering which reveal flashes of flesh, like pencil skirts with daring slits, blouses with alluring cut-outs and polo neck dresses which are spliced at the stomach. The seductive Seventies androgyny of Bianca Jagger is a recurring inspiration, and tones synonymous with this decade are noted in chocolate brown, periwinkle blue and mustard. ‘I'm amazed how she could wear menswear suits and still look feminine and glamorous,' Olenich adds.
Another influence was the unofficial king of corsetry Jean Paul Gaultier. ‘Inspired by his very dramatic and complex corsets, I tried to soften this silhouette and adapt it to our lifestyle,’ Olenich says of shapes which feature cinching waists or lingerie details, including jackets with a bra overlay or dresses with seductive underwire details. Time to swap out your sweatpants.
INFORMATION
olenich.co
-
Terrified to get inked? This inviting Brooklyn tattoo parlour is for people who are 'a little bit nervous'With minty-green walls and an option to 'call mom', Tiny Zaps' Williamsburg location was designed to tame jitters
-
Let’s hear it for the Chopard L.U.C Grand Strike chiming watchThe Swiss watchmaker’s most complicated timepiece to date features an innovative approach to producing a crystal-clear sound
-
Form... and flavour? The best design-led restaurant debuts of 2025A Wallpaper* edit of the restaurant interiors that shaped how we ate, gathered and lingered this year
-
Cult 1960s boutique Granny Takes A Trip gets a sustainable rebootFounded on King’s Road in 1966, ‘radically creative’ fashion store Granny Takes A Trip is being reimagined for a new generation. Dal Chodha takes a closer look
-
BITE Studios: ‘We want to have a brand which makes an impact’BITE Studios is marrying sustainable textiles – from seaweed fabric to pea silk – with designs by a team including alumni of Proenza Schouler and Acne Studios
-
Icicle, the cross-continental label championing sustainability for 25 yearsOn the arrival of a new collection, ‘Hemp Up’, womenswear artistic director Bénédicte Laloux tells Wallpaper* the story behind minimally minded fashion label Icicle
-
Louis Vuitton announces decade long project to rewild London's ChelseaCentral London’s first ‘Heritage Forest' on Pont Street in Chelsea, will be the result of a rewilding partnership between Louis Vuitton, Cadogan and SUGi
-
Textile innovator Byborre empowers creators to cut waste‘We developed a new process that allows creators to innovate,’ says Borre Akkersdijk, co-founder of Dutch textile innovation studio and clothing label Byborre
-
Water inspires Holzweiler’s Snøhetta-designed Oslo flagshipHolzweiler Platz, the new retail destination of fashion brand Holzweiler in Oslo, is designed by architects Snøhetta as a naturalistic space that unites fashion, art and food
-
Marni Market arrives at Matchesfashion in MayfairMatchesfashion is offering first access to its new Marni Market to Wallpaper* readers
-
Advene’s debut bag is forever‘We want our debut bag to stand the test of wear, weather, and time’
