Milan Fashion Week Men's S/S 2020 Editor's Picks

Tod's: Set in the grounds of the grand Villa Necchi Campiglio, Tod's presented a collection of fine menswear staples, giving each a luxury makeover. The collection was titled 'The Ride' and consisted of pieces fit for a man who travels but also likes the exhilarating high driving a classic sports car gives when hitting top speed. A classic biker came in super soft tan leather with contesting racing stripes racing down its front, while a field jacket and vest came with multiple pockets making them perfect utility travel companion. Elsewhere, a tech fabric printed with graphic geological map lines was used for windbreakers and board shorts, and a car coat cane in lightweight suede. As always footwear was key – the classic Gommino was updated with an espadrille sole and sneakers appeared with suped-up soles reminiscent of the sleek lines of a sports car.

Versace: The alerting refrain to The Prodigy’s Firestarter announced the start of Donatella Versace’s tribute to Keith Flint, the band's eccentric frontman who died this year. Models aggressively strode around a black rotating sports car covered in flowers by artist Andy Dixon in classic Versace ensembles. The opening section paid homage to the codes Gianni dabbled with in the early 1990s – fringed biker jackets were worn over T-shirts printed with vintage Versace fragrance ads, while narrow leather trousers came with laces up their sides. Elsewhere, sharply cut blazers were spliced together – one side black, the other great, and lurex track pants looked fierce in leopard. The tempo revved up further in a series of pieces that featured a car motif printed on denim jackets and outlined in crystal on shirts.

Bally: The brand took us on a fashionable hike this season, tapping into its Swiss heritage. A neat boxy cut jacket was printed with motifs from the Bally archive, while a silk shirt bloomed with mountain flora and fauna. Elsewhere, a minimalistic navy trench came with suede belt fastening cuffs and bright orange bomber carried multiple 3-D pockets reminiscent of a foraging vest. An innovative pleated leather technique developed by the brand was used to startling effect on an overcoat, tee and pair of shorts.

Church’s: Stepping out at Church's this season is an update of the brand's classic ‘Shannon’, this time appearing in a vintage guise with an artistically worn toe. Elsewhere, a women’s leather cross strap sandal was reworked for men with tiny silvers studs outlining the sole. These were shown alongside debut styles including a retro sneaker in nylon and suede, a British military inspired boot in canvas and leather deck shoe.

Alexander McQueen: Sarah Burton was in a reflective mood for S/S 2020, reminiscing on the frequent trips the team, lead by the late Lee McQueen, made to Japan in the Nineties. She was also thinking of how to translate the reconstructed, cut up and pieced together technique used in her women's A/W 2019 collection to menswear. Magnified flowers blossomed over sharply tailored suits, while crystal and metal embroidered birds sat regally on jacket fronts. Mystical dragon printed silk back panels added an exoticism. Elsewhere, a beige cotton gabardine trench appeared with silk bomber sleeves, and a frock coats lower half entirely constructed from shredded strips of insider fabrics from previous seasons.

Valextra: In an ongoing series of yearly interior overhauls, Valextra's Milan flagship store has been reimagined by architect John Pawson for its third incarnation. A pristine concrete space made up of graphic lines showcasing the brand's kaleidoscopic bag range. S/S 2020 sees a new collaboration with Moncler on a collection of three bag styles – a boxy utility satchel on a nylon fluffy pillow strap, a weekend bag and an oversized tote. Finally, a new customising service will launch allowing customers to have their initials made into a repeated pattern that can then be printed onto a bag base.

Canali / Black Edition: This season sees the debut of Black Edition, a 31 look apparel collection that will run alongside the tailoring-focused main brand. Relaxed cut jersey blazers were teamed with matching track pants, while zip up anoraks in tech fabrics and fine gauge knitted polos continued the sportswear theme. For the main collection suits in lightweight fabrics exuded an easy elegance.

Brunello Cucinelli: Spending time with Silicone Valley’s tech giants, Cucinelli was struck by their casual, laid back style. The designer is known for his smart, elegant clothes but for S/S 2020 the codes were relaxed and less formal. The collection was based on comfort, inspired by men who do not wear suits to get big business done. Suiting was more deconstructed in linen fabrications, trousers had a sportier fit, lightweight nylon jackets were cut with a lapel. The classic Cucinelli camel cable knit worn underneath suit jackets was swapped for a ‘Be courageous’ logo Tee.

Santoni: The Italian accessories label has never followed presentation convention and this season was no exception, with the brand holding an exclusive Cineclub in the grand setting of Palazzo Gallarati Scotti. Guests were invited to sit back and watch four short films, each of which had inspired the collection. Derby and loafer styles came in soft nubuck, while desert boots appeared in unlined suede. Elsewhere, deck shoes with an ultra-light sole, cross strap sandals and espadrilles carried handmade details and the brand's trademark double buckle. A new retro sneaker style with a gum sole completed the collection.

CP Company: For S/S20, the brand is looking back to look forward. Downstairs in the recently opened Milan flagship, archival styles including a rare battered tan suede down jacket from 1979 are on display alongside a mini lab, which hosts a special custom dyeing process. The season marks the start of an ongoing project with Too Hot Limited; customers can bring in their own pieces to be valued and swapped for credit to spend on something new. Urban sportswear with no nonsense and high-performance.

Etro: An X-wing starfighter was casually parked at the entrance to Etro’s S/S20 show. Framed by a set of the Italian house’s iconic patterned luggage, it marked the arrival of an exclusive collaboration with Walt Disney Pictures’ Lucasfilm. In anticipation of the ninth episode of the Star Wars saga, The Rise of Skywalker, motifs taken from the films’ history were printed onto the front of genderless staples. Hoodies, sweatshirts and a bomber featured graphics from 1977’s A New Hope. Blue striped shirting popped with familiar pictures of Luke Skywalker, Princess Leia and R2D2. A Star Wars logo t-shirt was worn beneath an exquisite bejewelled paisley blazer in an otherwise quintessentially elegant, nomadic collection.

Brioni: The Brioni S/S20 collection explored off-duty formality. Design director Norbert Stumpfl ushered in a down-time, relaxed attitude but still with impeccable style. ‘I wanted our guy to go on a rendezvous, a dinner,’ he said. ‘He’s out of the office.’ We know the Brioni man in the office, but what about other scenarios? The look was effortless, easy and expertly finished. A grey, washed silk trench was trimmed with leather. ‘If this is normally in the hands of somebody who doesn’t know what they’re doing it’ll look like a hot mess,’ he said. Track pants were in tailoring fabrics, t-shirts finished with aloe-vera. Double face blazers had the lightness of pocket square. ‘It’s like air,’ Stumpfl smiled.

Ralph Lauren Purple Label: Ralph Lauren took to the sea in a nautical inspired collection for S/S 2020. Seafaring troupes were updated in bold, graphic colour combinations – a wind sheeter came emblazoned with spliced together yacht flags inspired by an archive scarf print, while a lightweight intarsia knit jumper carried the motif of a lighthouse and ship. Eveningwear suits appeared in a riot of vibrant hues cut from decedent silk shantung, contrasting fine-gauge turtlenecks offered an air of ease. The seasonal ‘Ralph Suit’, inspired directly by the designers personal take on tailoring – a broad shouldered double-breasted jacket with neat waistline fastening at the bottom button – looked Italian Riviera ready in pale grey.

Giuseppe Zanotti: The distinctive blabber sneaker morphed into fresh iterations for S/S 20 – starting from minimalist black and taupe suede (with a clear rubber sole) all the way up to bright metallic gold. It came studded and in pearlescent leather too, for that extra Zanotti flourish. New for the season was a tie-dye story; Chelsea boots, moccasins and low-top sneakers in patterned canvas.

Trussardi Archive + Now3: Now in its third instalment, Trussardi's project Archive + Now invites creatives to reinterpret and evolve the brand's house codes in a seasonal collection. This time round designer Giorgio Di Salvo of streetwear brand United Standard was in the driving seat. Trousers and shirts were cut in butter soft leather giving a fluid feel, while a waistcoat was given multiple pockets. Elsewhere, sweatshirts and t-shirts were adorned with the brand's synonymous greyhound motif. Images and a film by cult artist Cali Thornhill DeWitt showcased the collection.

Serapian: For S/S 2020 Italian leather specialist Serapian launch its special 'Mosaico - Signed by our Artisans' collection of bags. Each item uses a unique technique developed by the brand's founder, Stefano Serapian, that involves braiding soft nappa stripes by hand to create geometric patterns reminiscent of Byzantine mosaics and Japanese origami. Oversized totes, compact crossbody and clutch bags find there signature monochromatic surfaces interrupted by coloured stripes woven in by the brand's master artisans.

Tom Ford: Tom Ford took a more minimalist approach this season in a pared down collection that played with classic silhouettes in subversive fabric combinations. Sharply tailored jackets were teamed with torso skimming shirts and fine gauge roll necks, while oversized coats where nonchalantly thrown over lean cut suits to emphasise the slim silhouette. Black leather was key – a neat biker and longer length blazer embossed in alligator added a touch of danger, while a classic sportswear zip up and track pants were given a luxurious makeover in perforated leather. Elsewhere, a series of pop coloured evening wear jackets came in a glistening leopard and zebra jacquard fabric. Bags in exotic skins came with concealed zips and robust hardware, angular sunglasses and a new square toed ankle boot expanded Ford's accessories range.