Area S/S 2020 New York Fashion Week Women

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Scene setting: After several seasons of showing in off-beat venues like a high school rooftop, a basement swimming pool and last season's dramatic public courtyard, Area graduated to the main stage of Spring Studios this season – a sure indication of how the label has matured. In spite of the grown up setting, the label remained true to its streetwise roots by carving out the white box space with fringe-like curtains made from threads of rhinestones, a nod to the tone of the show, which examined the concept of adornment.

Mood board: Tailoring was a focus of S/S 2020 for designers Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk. Translated in Area's terms, this meant broad-shouldered suit jackets, sky high hems on structured mini skirts, puff shouldered details on blouses and jackets as well as bold ruching on evening gowns and dresses.

Finishing touches: The idea of embellishment was essential to the collection, and its founders took inspiration from everything from the name plate necklace, pioneered by African Americans in the Eighties and Nineties as a form of individuality, to Victorian adornment like armour and wire sculptures. More than anything, the newest collection found provocation in its abundance use of crystal face jewellery, which included nose rings, fringed masks and intricate headpieces. Complemented by oversized earrings, architectural body harnesses and belts, jewel-encrusted chokers and an abundance of gold nameplate necklaces bearing the word ‘area' translated in multiple languages, these pieces are not for shrinking violets.

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Pei-Ru Keh is a former US Editor at Wallpaper*. Born and raised in Singapore, she has been a New Yorker since 2013. Pei-Ru held various titles at Wallpaper* between 2007 and 2023. She reports on design, tech, art, architecture, fashion, beauty and lifestyle happenings in the United States, both in print and digitally. Pei-Ru took a key role in championing diversity and representation within Wallpaper's content pillars, actively seeking out stories that reflect a wide range of perspectives. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and two children, and is currently learning how to drive.