Scene setting: Assurance is something you palpably feel walking into a Michael Kors show. The collection notes are immaculately printed and bound on watermarked paper; every outfit is listed alongside the model who will be wearing it; each editor’s name handwritten on a seating card… meaning no last minute decisions — for the styling, the models or the guest list. Shareholders will also be feeling assured — the location of the show was the New York Stock Exchange, and Capri Holdings shares (the conglomerate that owns Kors, Jimmy Choo and Versace) were up substantially today by 3.33 per-cent, following a stellar 8 per-cent rise last week. And Kors, himself, was channelling assurance in the clothes, all of which felt pleasingly familiar but not hackneyed, and with what he called ‘cozy glamour’. Perhaps it’s all the American, ney global, political shuffling that made these clothes feel particularly welcome right now.
Best in show: Kors’s ‘town and country’ mood played out in sharp tweed suiting, paisley pussy bow blouses, giant chunky knit polo necks and capes in cashmere and buttery suede. Compelling outerwear included a quilted leather chocolate brown jacket with drawstring chains. He’s also cleverly integrating pieces such as a white denim shearling trimmed gilet that will appeal to a younger, edgier customer (Kors has been making a concerted effort to branch out, working with boundary pushing creatives such as Richie Shazam). The sequins on a black evening dress worn by Mica Argañaraz were crafted from recycled plastic bottles.
Finishing touches: The men’s grey double ply cashmere blend unlined cardigan coat and corduroy pincord puffa in chestnut brown are set to become ultimate outer layer wish list items for boys and girls alike. A chestnut leather pleated shirt dress will excite Kors loyalists and convert a new edgier customer. Also note the hero chunky cable jumper, hand-knitted through with leather stitching and fringing. Standout bags included a saddle stitched leather pocket that attaches across the shoulder and can be worn under a coat, and a shearling weekender. §
