3.1 Phillip Lim S/S 2020 New York Fashion Week Women

3.1 Phillip Lim S/S 2020.

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Scene setting: Perennially interested in contrasts, Phillip Lim lured the fashion crowd to a nondescript warehouse in Brooklyn, where he sat the audience both in the structure and outside in its industrial, yet green courtyard, while a simple, triangular black gravel path served as the runway. This interest in duality continued to go further with the designer showing both men's and women's offerings together as a cohesive portrait of the global citizen.

Mood board: Seasonless dressing has become a mainstay of the fashion industry and Lim's take on year-round staples did not disappoint. Voluminous new shapes and exaggerated proportions were combined with novel fabrics, including one with a fluid lacquered finish, so that garments moved freely and could be easily layered when needed. Elsewhere, pieces ranging from dresses and skirts to trenchcoats and trouser, were infused with utility details, bringing a cool, sporty edge to tailored essentials.

Finishing touches: Accessories are always a 3.1 strongsuit and this season, the deconstruction of one of the label's staple designs, the Alexa shoe, took on a new feel with eye-catching cut-out panels. The season also debuted a new collaboration with artist and designer Ariana Broussard-Reifel, who's sculptural, organic pieces, accentuated several of the women's looks.

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Pei-Ru Keh is a former US Editor at Wallpaper*. Born and raised in Singapore, she has been a New Yorker since 2013. Pei-Ru held various titles at Wallpaper* between 2007 and 2023. She reports on design, tech, art, architecture, fashion, beauty and lifestyle happenings in the United States, both in print and digitally. Pei-Ru took a key role in championing diversity and representation within Wallpaper's content pillars, actively seeking out stories that reflect a wide range of perspectives. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and two children, and is currently learning how to drive.