Scene setting: Triangles of fabric suspended in the air, billowed in the breeze like ship’s sails down the stretch of a long runway. Earlier this week, Emporio Armani was inspired by the lightness of the summer sky, and for spring, Sportmax looked to the ‘Air Fountains’ of New York kinetic sculpture artist Daniel Wurtzel, whose installations feature shimmering fabrics, which twist and turn through the air. As the show began, Sportmax’s flying fabrics began to rise and fall, like the steady intake of breath, or the fluid movement of a boat through the sea.
Mood board: Wurtzel’s experimentations in lightness of form filtered into a collection of relaxed, fluid and draped shapes in caramels, cornflower and slate, and a sea foam of blues. Flowing kaftans and bias cut dresses in silk and georgette, wisp around the body like a ship’s sail, accentuated with chain and ruching. Short suits – a S/S 2020 Milan staple – had an executive nonchalance, shirt dresses were deconstructed with ribbon ties and splashed with panels of romantic florals and shirting featured oversized pockets, for utilitarian élan.
Finishing touches: Transparency and lightness was offset with leather detailing imagined in buttery caramel leather. Graphic leather collars and cuffs were overlaid on gauzy dresses, and had nautical eyelet details, trenchcoats boasted unbuckled belts and the laces of chunky sandals twisted around the leg.
Sportmax S/S 2020.
Sportmax S/S 2020.
Sportmax S/S 2020.
Sportmax S/S 2020.
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Willy Chavarria: ‘We’re still so stuck in fashion‘s old guard’As part of the August 2025 ‘Made in America’ issue of Wallpaper*, we invited three creative powerhouses to comment on the state of the States. Here, award-winning American fashion designer Willy Chavarria speaks on creative resilience, uniting with activist groups, and shaking up fashion’s old guard
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Six Indian artists reframe the ladies compartment of a Mumbai local trainAn exhibition by Method (India) at Galerie Melike Bilir in Hamburg explores a gendered space
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Frank Lloyd Wright’s The Fountainhead – a shining example of Usonian design – is now on the marketThis quintessential Wright home – built in a vibrant mid-century neighbourhood – was named after a novel inspired by the architect
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The collections you might have missed this S/S 2026 menswear seasonBetween the headliners in Paris, Milan and Florence, a few off-schedule displays are deserving of honourable mention – from Martine Rose’s sexually-charged portrait of Kensington Market to Sander Lak’s appointment-only namesake debut
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Let there be light: a closer look at Prada’s stripped-back S/S 2026 show set‘This is the first time the Fondazione is completely bare, with the light coming in,’ said Raf Simons backstage at Prada’s ‘light, fresh, colourful’ and ‘human’ S/S 2026 men’s show in Milan
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The standout shows of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026: Prada to DunhillWallpaper* picks the very best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026, from Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ ‘light, fresh’ and ‘human’ display to Dunhill’s exploration of English dress codes
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Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026: live updates from the Wallpaper* teamFrom 20-23 June, Milan Fashion Week Men’s arrives in the Italian fashion capital. Follow along for a first look at the shows, presentations and other fashion happenings, as seen by the Wallpaper* editors
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With an ode to Italy, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake brings its brand of fashion magic to Florence’s Pitti UomoMarking the start of a new nomadic way of showing for the Japanese label, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake held its S/S 2026 show at Florence’s Villa Medicea della Petraia as part of Pitti Uomo last night (18 June) with a collection inspired by the colours and textures of Italy
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What the Wallpaper* editors are looking forward to at Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2026As Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2026 begins in Florence, the Wallpaper* style team select the moments they will be looking out for – from Jonathan Anderson’s anticipated Dior debut to outings from Wales Bonner, Kiko Kostadinov and Prada
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50 years of Santoni, the footwear brand steeped in Italian craft, celebrated in a new bookInside ‘Santoni Meraviglia’, a richly illustrated new tome published by Assouline that tells the story behind the Italian brand’s meticulously crafted footwear
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‘The White Lotus’ meets La Dolce Vita: inside Mytheresa and Dolce & Gabbana’s Taormina takeoverWallpaper* travels to Taormina, Sicily, where a two-day celebration of the latest Dolce & Gabbana x Mytheresa collaboration centred around San Domenico Palace, A Four Seasons Hotel – the filming location of ‘The White Lotus’ season two
