Emporio Armani S/S 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's

Mood board: If Fendi was thinking of the golden sun for S/S 2020, then Giorgio Armani was enamoured with the air. The designer’s presence within his label’s home city is as encapsulating as this natural element, and it was the lightness and insubstantiality of air that inspired the designer’s spring collection. In its usual chronological catwalk order, it was presented against a cloud-passing panorama, in a series of grey, pinks, blues and greens. Velvets, crushed chiffons and holographic moire enhanced the lightweight mood, with sequins and beadwork adding sky at night effect. The collection was true to Armani’s eveningwear and tailoring takes, featuring fluid, flapper style dresses and slouchy sportswear.

Best in show: For women, tracksuit trousers in gauzy metallic silks and crushed velvets had a relaxed modernity, and for men, suiting was sleek and standout in its oversized 1980s construction.

Finishing touches: Looks were finished with Armani’s idiosyncratic smatter of chunky jewellery, from fluid chainmail earrings which added to the air-inspired élan, to chunky necklaces formed from a graphic tumble of cube beads.