Fendi S/S 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's

Scene setting: The sun rose on Fendi’s new chapter, the first without the 54-year creative directorship of Karl Lagerfeld. For her ‘Solar Flair’ S/S 2020 collection, Silvia Venturini Fendi erected a long glossy catwalk at the brand’s usual Via Solari show space. Models entered the runway through a half elliptical outline of the sun, illuminated in a warm haze of orange and yellow light. A Michel Gaubert-mixed soundtrack enhanced the energetic, summer mood and for the finale, models strode to The 5th Dimension’s Aquarius (Let the Sunshine In).

Mood board: This was a collection as warm and joyful as the first day of summer, and tones of caramels, mustards and sugary pinks, popped alongside jewel emerald, fuchsia and sky blue. There were retro floral prints overlaid with laser-cut petals, gauzy sequin houndstooths, transparent crochets, cloud-like quilting and toweling, all fit for a bygone Roman getaway or a sun-kissed vacation on Capri. On Fendi’s holiday hit list? Bronze velvet dresses with kitsch botanical prints and a plunging neckline, padded honeycomb tulle miniskirts, transparent bell sleeve dresses and dressing gown jackets. Don’t forget your tanning oil.

Finishing touches: There’s a crafty raffia micro trend on the S/S 2020 catwalks; just look to the artisanal detailing in Simone Rocha and Jil Sander’s shows. For spring, natural details were essential to Fendi’s take on a ‘Solar Flair’, and the brand’s Peekaboo bag was increased to an exaggerated size and woven from colourful raffia.