Scene setting: In her usual spring/summer style, the architect-trained designer held her show outside, in and around 2019’s Junya Ishigami-designed Serpentine Pavilion. This year, it takes the form of a single canopy resembling a cloud, formed from slabs of coloured slate. ‘It emphasises a natural and organic feel as though it had grown out of the lawn,’ Ishigami told us back in June. Ilincic added a bold tangerine runway to proceedings, inspired by Christo and Jeanne-Claude’s 2016 installation The Floating Piers – formed from 70,000 sq m of graphic, floating yellow fabric – on Italy’s Lake Iseo.
Mood board: Ilincic is known for her imaginative use of colour (also look to Rejina Pyo and Victoria Beckham for S/S 2020’s ebullient colour palette) and the crimsons, ceruleans and ochres in her collection nodded to the work of LA-based artist Mary Weatherford – who creates spontaneous sponged paintings that incorporate neon rods. S/S 2020 incorporated tailoring and day pieces, like slouchy boiler suits, oversized workman’s shirts and mélange jersey blazers, and more dreamlike couture-inspired gowns, accentuated with accordion pleats and huge ruffles. An array of crushed metal yarn taffeta dresses with collars resembling corrugated metal, bore particular resemblance to Weatherford’s work.
Best in show: There was an interplay between voluminous evening wear, of which Ilincic is most famous for, and more relaxed silhouettes. A series of bright draped dresses paired with tailored overcoats, and oversized menswear tailoring in ivory and flax was exquisitely modern.
Roksanda S/S 2020
Roksanda S/S 2020
Roksanda S/S 2020
-
Vincent Van Duysen and Zara unveil a sophisticated new flagship concept in BarcelonaZara Diagonal by Vincent Van Duysen brings the intimacy of a domestic space to the shopping experience
-
These classic board games are elevated with a creative twistFrom a leather Snakes and Ladders to a whimsical Noughts and Crosses (plus a few newcomers): browse our edit of the best board games to keep you and your guests entertained this holiday season
-
Remembering Frank Gehry, a titan of architecture and a brilliant human beingLong-time Wallpaper* contributor Michael Webb reflects on the legacy of the Los Angeles architect, who died today at age 96
-
‘Architect of glamour’ Antony Price makes a high-voltage return to the runway with 16ArlingtonFeaturing a runway debut from Lily Allen, the show saw legendary designer Antony Price – best known for outfitting Roxy Music in the 1980s – unite with 16Arlington’s Marco Capaldo on the sensual after-dark collection
-
‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
-
Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Eva Rothschild creates original artworks for Roksanda at London Fashion WeekIn this Q&A Roksanda Ilinčić and Eva Rothschild discuss their artistic collaboration for Roksanda's A/W 2022 show at London Fashion Week
