Mood board: Alongside a flair for flouncy shapes and subversively sugary shades, fabrication and technique, including painstaking hand smocking, has always been essential to Molly Goddard’s design output. The mille feuille-like layers of her tulle dresses have the power to float and bob weightlessly down the runway like clouds. A dress in her last A/W 2019 collection was formed from 90m of tulle. Goddard spent six months working on new forms of cutting and construction for her S/S 2020 show, ensuring that the hyperbolic pieces in her collection – from puffball pastel yellow frilled tulle skirts to transparent peach melba toned ruffled dresses – stayed supported without internal tricks. Silhouettes were ruched and ruffled, puffed and layered, secured with ribbon ties and smattered with whimsical floral prints and imagined in bold corals, cobalt, peach and lime.
Scene setting: The lightness of the collection was reflected in the show’s light filled, expansive venue. It was held inside Marylebone’s Seymour Leisure Centre, a space with an enormous sports hall boasting a window lined elliptical ceiling. It is built on the same site as the first version of a public swimming pool in England.
Finishing touches: Goddard’s brand is only four years old, and in recent season’s she’s been gently dipping her toe into the accessories category. For S/S 2020 she added a series of studded leather shoulder bags to her repertoire, bright leather boots and dainty summer sandals with a single ankle strap
Molly Goddard S/S 2020
Molly Goddard S/S 2020
Molly Goddard S/S 2020
Molly Goddard S/S 2020
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Margaret Howell celebrates the ‘modern and grounded’ work of British weaver Peter Collingwood with a rare exhibition and calendarOne of the 20th century’s seminal weavers, the exhibition provides a serene respite from Frieze London, unfolding in Margaret Howell’s London store
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Out of office: The Wallpaper* editors' picks of the weekThe London office of Wallpaper* had a very important visitor this week. Elsewhere, the team traverse a week at Frieze
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Alexandre de Betak on getting lost to find himself in LondonAs the world-renowned artistic director opens his first personal studio in London during Frieze Week, Alexandre de Betak reflects on leaving the fashion runway behind to explore light, space and creative freedom
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‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
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Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
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Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
