Kiko Kostadinov S/S 2020 London Fashion Week Women’s
Scene setting: The futuristic and the folkloric are two juxtaposing references synonymous with the London-based brand, which for S/S 2019 saw twin sisters Deanna and Laura Fanning take the reigns of Kostadinov’s womenswear offering. Young artist Rosie Grace Ward’s exploration of cyberpunk fiction, and her focus on tribal motifs and metal forms chimes with Kostadindov’s sci fi-fused storytelling. At the Hellenic Centre in Marylebone, the artist created a pair of tall talismanic steel mesh columns overlaid with swirling aluminium tribal patterns, with tufty fronds of wheat pluming from their base.
Mood board: The sisters used the circle – organic, finite and celestial – as a leitmotif. Jersey dresses and t-shirts were formed from cut-and-sew panels of spiraling jersey, mesh and satin twill jackets were patchworked with concentric circles and swirling tribal pendants – also designed by Ward – hung as pendants from barbed wire necklaces, or appeared as talismanic armour on bare clavicles. Striped and lurex knits draped and knotted around the body, jackets jutted with elfin pagoda shoulders, poppers bought a sporty sensibility to stripe satin trousers and knitted conch shells were carried as clutch bags.
Team work: This week saw the release of the velcro Gessirit trainer – Kostadinov’s first womenswear collaboration with Asics. Its launch features an advertising campaign lensed by and starring Japanese photographer Fukimo Imano. For S/S 2020, Kostadinov’s Asics footwear took inspiration from archival basketball, tennis and cycling shoes, in the form of slip on pumps with cut-outs at the tongue and ankle boots dotted with blobs of Skysensor gel. §