Scene setting: Marc Jacobs typically wipes the slate clean when staging his show at the Park Avenue Armory – the much-celebrated spectacle that signals the end of New York fashion week. This season, a gently undulating glass block wall welcomed guests as they entered the space – a clear harking back to the mid-century. Transparent perspex chairs formed two long rows that spanned the width of the Armory, flanking a clear perspex runway as well.
Mood board: Despite being almost an hour and a half late (Jacobs is usually notoriously punctual with the start of his shows, which rarely wait for any man), the designer’s latest showing was a sensational finale for the season. Candy-coloured hues, confection-like volumes and exaggerated silhouettes flooded the runway in glittering brocades and embellished chiffon that all seemed to reference the glamour of the 50s and 60s. The feel of the collection was romantic and ladylike with elegant cape-like coats adorned with ruffled collars, bell-shaped skirts cinched in at the waist with patent leather belts and an abundance of pussycat bows and giant rosettes.
Team work: Set to a musical cacophony by the composer Steve Mackey, Jacobs’ collection took on a thrilling air of mystery, akin to an Alfred Hitchcock film. This was further enhanced by the elegant hats, netted headpieces and surrealistic sheer scarves that were wrapped around the models’ faces, created by milliner Stephen Jones. The fantasy was completed with an array of polished bouffants and bouncy ponytails, all perfectly delivered by the hairstylist Guido Palau.
