Scene setting: Marc Jacobs typically wipes the slate clean when staging his show at the Park Avenue Armory – the much-celebrated spectacle that signals the end of New York fashion week. This season, a gently undulating glass block wall welcomed guests as they entered the space – a clear harking back to the mid-century. Transparent perspex chairs formed two long rows that spanned the width of the Armory, flanking a clear perspex runway as well.
Mood board: Despite being almost an hour and a half late (Jacobs is usually notoriously punctual with the start of his shows, which rarely wait for any man), the designer's latest showing was a sensational finale for the season. Candy-coloured hues, confection-like volumes and exaggerated silhouettes flooded the runway in glittering brocades and embellished chiffon that all seemed to reference the glamour of the 50s and 60s. The feel of the collection was romantic and ladylike with elegant cape-like coats adorned with ruffled collars, bell-shaped skirts cinched in at the waist with patent leather belts and an abundance of pussycat bows and giant rosettes.
Team work: Set to a musical cacophony by the composer Steve Mackey, Jacobs' collection took on a thrilling air of mystery, akin to an Alfred Hitchcock film. This was further enhanced by the elegant hats, netted headpieces and surrealistic sheer scarves that were wrapped around the models' faces, created by milliner Stephen Jones. The fantasy was completed with an array of polished bouffants and bouncy ponytails, all perfectly delivered by the hairstylist Guido Palau.
-
Willy Chavarria: ‘We’re still so stuck in fashion‘s old guard’As part of the August 2025 ‘Made in America’ issue of Wallpaper*, we invited three creative powerhouses to comment on the state of the States. Here, award-winning American fashion designer Willy Chavarria speaks on creative resilience, uniting with activist groups, and shaking up fashion’s old guard
-
Six Indian artists reframe the ladies compartment of a Mumbai local trainAn exhibition by Method (India) at Galerie Melike Bilir in Hamburg explores a gendered space
-
Frank Lloyd Wright’s The Fountainhead – a shining example of Usonian design – is now on the marketThis quintessential Wright home – built in a vibrant mid-century neighbourhood – was named after a novel inspired by the architect
-
Everything you need to know about the Met Gala 2025 and ‘Superfine: Tailoring Black Style’ exhibitionEverything Wallpaper* knows about the Met Gala 2025 – from the dress code to the exhibition theme and A-list co-chairs
-
Sarah Moon brings painterly fashion and dark fantasy to Fotografiska New YorkOctogenarian French photographer and filmmaker Sarah Moon shows 30 years of work at Fotografiska New York – spanning fashion and fantasy, mystery and the macabre, it’s dark, painterly and compelling
-
‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion' is coming to The MetThe first of a two-part, year-long extravaganza, ‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion’ is organised into 12 sections that seek to define the emotional qualities in American style
-
Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis GroupMemphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
-
‘A place for the eye to pause’: Ulla Johnson unveils New York HQThe Manhattan-born fashion designer opens a warmly-hued style sanctuary, created in collaboration with architect Rafael de Cárdenas
-
Es Devlin-designed time-travelling exhibition opens at The Met’s Costume Institute‘Our aim is to communicate the phenomenon of time as it is expressed through the female form,’ says Devlin of the exhibition she has designed alongside curator Andrew Bolton
-
Theory A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s -
Michael Kors A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
