Peter Pilotto London Fashion Week Women’s S/S 2019
Mood board: The duo behind the Peter Pilotto label are making more than waves with their glitzy womenswear. As part of last year’s Brompton Design District’s ‘Other Stories’ initiative during London Design Festival, they curated a three-storey townhouse in Cromwell Place, filling it with homeware such as a geometric print sofa by Bethan Laura Wood, a range of shearling-topped stools by Martino Gamper, rugs by Max Lamb and ceramics by artist Francis Upritchard. The duo’s feminine, textural clothes are often inspired by the objets d’art they buy or collect from friends or trips aboard. Their approach is multi-dimensional.
Scene setting: The longstanding collaboration with Gamper has seen the jolly re-boot of his lauded angular Arnold Circus stool (a crown of shaggy, tri-colour shearling sits on top of sandstone plastic). The standard iteration of the piece was dotted around the S/S 2019 show venue – the tropical-themed Polynesian bar Trader Vic’s, in the basement of the Hilton Park Lane. Whilst the models meandered through the club, guests sat around tables nibbling on pineapple cubes, carrot sticks and champagne.
Best in show: The duo’s clothes are best seen – and understood – within intimate, eclectic interiors. S/S 2019 was influenced by the 19th century glass maker Emile Gallé’s vibrant pieces. Made during the art nouveau period, Gallé would often draw on motifs relating to nature, botany and insects. From their frosted patina, the designers have translated a metallic lustre into their tailoring. Dresses have a diaphanous élan; shimmering empire line robes flow with ease. Silk shirts worn tucked into skirts are printed with botanical cameos; tops are asymmetric and worn with long flared trousers. The textures of painted jacquard and hammered satin brought to mind the techniques and look of the period. §