Ever since Giambattista Valli took the creative reigns of Moncler's Gamme Rouge label, the brand has pushed puffer jackets to dizzying pinnacles of couture revelry. It was somewhat of a shock, then, to see the Gamme Rouge runway very nearly stripped of its bedazzled, embroidered and otherwise 'luxified' outerwear. In its place, Valli delivered down-to-earth sportswear that looked very much like what one would actually find on the clean, well-merchandised racks of a Moncler store. Bomber jackets in wool felt, Bermuda shorts in crisp cotton and hooded sweatshirts made the case for casual dressing. For more formal moments, the look still possessed a laid back attitude. Short lengths dominated the trapeze shaped dresses, brief shorts and mini skirts, all of which were paired with a smart lace-up oxford. Of course, Valli's heart belongs to a posh uptown girl, so he threw in some intricate lace embroideries, but cut them according to the short, sporty mood of the show. The finale of sailing windbreakers splashed with the patterns of national flags blew further evidence to the fact that Moncler's lofty outerwear is coming down to earth.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
Wallpaper* Architects’ Directory 2024: meet the practicesIn the Wallpaper* Architects Directory 2024, our latest guide to exciting, emerging practices from around the world, 20 young studios show off their projects and passion
-
St. Vincent on designing her Klaus Nomi-inspired guitar lineSt. Vincent is a Wallpaper* guest editor for 2024. Here, she unpacks her long-standing relationship with the guitar. It started with wearing one in front of a mirror. Who knows how it ends. But somewhere in the middle, there is fun and freedom and a well-tailored instrument
-
Artist Jonathan Baldock plays hide and seek with the windows of Hermès' London flagshipA series of fantastical, brightly coloured hedges, dotted with peepholes, transform Hermès' New Bond Street store, offering an interactive experience for the passerby
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Akris A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Givenchy A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Valentino A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
