'All or nothing' was Alber Elbaz's approach for spring, launching into the house's 125th anniversary celebrations with a series of pared-back, long sheaths that served to highlight his ageless casting that linked-in familiar faces Violetta Sanchez, Amber Valletta and Kirsten Owen. Real boobs were embraced, if not shown off, thanks to his metallic net tanks worn under timeless tailoring. However, rather than a collective trend message, Elbaz sent out a wardrobe made up of great individual looks. Sure, many seemingly had little to do with the next, but each was effortlessly beautiful in their own right - just as we have come to expect from Elbaz. Entering the 'all' phase he then draped dresses spliced with panels of monochrome French lace followed by a moody flora-fauna print (taken from a screen by Armand-Albert Rateau, who designed Jeanne Lanvin's original quarters) that decorated jacquard pants and diaphanous dresses. Overall, the season served to reinforce Elbaz's design belief that his role is to craft clothes for real women, rather than outfits to be paraded. Although in spite of this, many of his metal accented mini shifts and fluid gowns are sure to make a red carpet entry at Lanvin's upcoming retrospective at the Palais Galleria next March.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
The new CLA brings Mercedes's all-electric know-how to a new market sectorMixing high tech moves with tremendous tactile qualities, the buttery smooth new Mercedes-Benz CLA is an electric winner. Wallpaper* drives across Denmark in a triumphant new car with a three-pointed star
-
Collagerie and Zara Home debut perfectly imperfect furniture and accessoriesLucinda Chambers’ Collagerie collaborates with Zara Home on a collection that is an ode to the everyday
-
‘A beginning is a dialogue’: Simone Bellotti reveals a first glimpse of his vision for Jil Sander with an EP and music videoTitled ‘Wanderlust’, the music video and EP is a collaboration with Bochum Welt, signalling an esoteric start to Simone Bellotti’s tenure at the house before his runway debut later this year
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
