Kenzo S/S 2015
Kenzo had us captured at their spring show before any look walked into their intriguing show space. Working with their trusted set collaborator Etienne Russo, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon colonised a Parisian skateboard rink, installing huge screen less video projections amongst the smooth cement hills and setting their models off on a journey into the colossal space. Kenzo's clothes come fast and furiously; and there were a lot of them to digest. The designers presented a whole wardrobe of off-duty and dressed-up clothing that spanned from the simplicity of boxy tops and sweatshirts to more fashion forward jumpsuits and exaggeratedly flared oversized trousers. If there was a theme this season it was volume, as the designers blew air into almost all of their silhouettes. This didn't work on every piece, but it looked fantastic on the pieces cut from sturdier or more compact fabrications such as their three-quarter length black skirts that opened to reveal side slits or their perorated printed tank dresses that draped with volume around the ankles. Our favourite pieces in this show, however, were the broderie anglaise and denim looks - the latter of which showed exactly what a creative twosome can devise for the world's most worn fabrication. In Lim's and Leon's hands, denim came in a soft sky blue and was cut in boxy, unusual shapes, such as kick skirts and tunic style jackets that lent a very fresh touch to jeanswear.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
JJ Martin
-
The Emory, RSHP’s first luxury hotel in London, is a rising star
New London hotel The Emory presents the perfect showcase of RSHP’s signature functionalist style and hospitality group Maybourne’s elevated luxury
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
‘Born in Oasi Zegna: The Book’ looks back to the house’s Alpine roots
Published by Rizzoli, ‘Born in Oasi Zegna’ looks towards the Oasi Zegna natural territory in the Italian Alps, where ZEGNA opened its first wool mill in 1910 and has since fostered a thriving natural ecosystem of more than 500,000 trees
By Jack Moss Published
-
The New York art exhibitions to see now
From MoMA to the smaller spaces, here are the best New York art exhibitions to catch before they close
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear shows
A Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Kenzo returns to Galerie Vivienne for Nigo’s A/W 2022 show debut
For his debut, A/W 2022 Kenzo show, the brand’s new creative director Nigo chose Paris’ Galerie Vivienne, the location of founder Kenzo Takada’s first boutique
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion Week
How the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated