Kenzo S/S 2015
Kenzo had us captured at their spring show before any look walked into their intriguing show space. Working with their trusted set collaborator Etienne Russo, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon colonised a Parisian skateboard rink, installing huge screen less video projections amongst the smooth cement hills and setting their models off on a journey into the colossal space. Kenzo's clothes come fast and furiously; and there were a lot of them to digest. The designers presented a whole wardrobe of off-duty and dressed-up clothing that spanned from the simplicity of boxy tops and sweatshirts to more fashion forward jumpsuits and exaggeratedly flared oversized trousers. If there was a theme this season it was volume, as the designers blew air into almost all of their silhouettes. This didn't work on every piece, but it looked fantastic on the pieces cut from sturdier or more compact fabrications such as their three-quarter length black skirts that opened to reveal side slits or their perorated printed tank dresses that draped with volume around the ankles. Our favourite pieces in this show, however, were the broderie anglaise and denim looks - the latter of which showed exactly what a creative twosome can devise for the world's most worn fabrication. In Lim's and Leon's hands, denim came in a soft sky blue and was cut in boxy, unusual shapes, such as kick skirts and tunic style jackets that lent a very fresh touch to jeanswear.
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
JJ Martin
-
David Shrigley designs album cover for punk band Lambrini GirlsThe limited edition release from the Brighton duo is available now
-
Dior’s new Beverly Hills dining salon raises the bar for couture cuisineFrom Peter Marino’s onyx bar and faceted mirrored walls to Nicole Wittenberg’s vast, immersive botanical canvas, Dior’s first restaurant outside Paris is here
-
Inside the factory where your Birkenstocks are madePart high-tech laboratory, part artisanal workshop, the German factory straddles past and future. For Wallpaper*, Stuart Brumfitt takes a rare tour
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear showsA Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
-
Kenzo returns to Galerie Vivienne for Nigo’s A/W 2022 show debutFor his debut, A/W 2022 Kenzo show, the brand’s new creative director Nigo chose Paris’ Galerie Vivienne, the location of founder Kenzo Takada’s first boutique
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion WeekHow the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles