Dries Van Noten S/S 2015
The Belgian designer weaves an exotic tale of Bohemia
This season we took a trip on Dries Van Noten's magic carpet catwalk to what were certainly greener pastures. The Belgian designer's enchanted spring setting saw Bohemian nymphs walking a shag pile, moss-hued rug that was made by Buenos Aires-based artist Alexandra Kehayoglou and stretched for more than one hundred metres down the centre of his Grand Palais venue. Instilling the same festival spirit in the clothes, Van Noten gave us a greatest hits compilation - not surprising given his Musée des Arts Decoratifs retrospective earlier this year - that was spun with an exotic twist. Silken pyjama pants, tailored Bermudas, zip-up patterned bombers, sarong skirts and his signature patchwork mélange of jacquard fabrics were all well accounted for. Stripes also made a grand return - although blocked in thick Pantone hues - along with Balinese block prints that were encrusted for evening. What felt freshest were his metallic shot batik prints, the plethora of flowing, asymmetrically tied sundresses, and the addition of denim - which also shimmered under the set's lights. Newer still were Van Noten's bumper wedges (bumper, because they reminded us of Marc Newson's 'Bumper Bed'), which give his girls the illusion of floating on white cushions, and yet somehow effectively grounded the clothes' Arts and Crafts exuberance. The show's finale offered a crowning stroke of genius as his models sat down to create a psychedelic mise-en-scène - he had after all been inspired by a mix of A Midsummer Night's Dream and British music festival Glastonbury. Indeed if Van Noten was one to do advertising campaigns he could have killed two birds with one stone here, but as he does not, a stream of Instagram imagery was waged on his behalf by his legions of fans that could not help getting down on their knees to partake in the festival scene.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Looking for a long-range luxury EV that’s a true Tesla alternative? Welcome to the Lucid Air
We drive the Lucid Air, the high-performance Californian EV that’s a welcome leftfield choice in a sea of Musk-mobiles. Vote Lucid!
By Guy Bird Published
-
Umbrian castle hotel Reschio seduces with 1,000 years of history, now explored in a new book
The estate, home to a boutique hotel and rentable houses, is documented in Rizzoli's ‘Reschio: the First Thousand Years’ – and is open for stays
By Tianna Williams Published
-
Light, nature and modernist architecture: welcome to the reimagined Longwood Gardens
Longwood Gardens and its modernist Roberto Burle Marx-designed greenhouse get a makeover by Weiss/Manfredi and Reed Hildebrand in the US
By Ian Volner Published
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated