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There aren't many designers in Milan that can officially be labeled as young, but within that small pool, Marco de Vincenzo is certainly the city's most creatively ambitious. No one can beat the former Fendi designer's technical prowess or his zenith level of quality in textiles and surface treatments. Every season de Vincenzo embarks on a fabric odyssey and this season the voyage circled around fringing and weaving. The designer's fringe was terrific silk thread that swung like the thick hair of a striking blonde but was clamped into graphic plaid-like patterns. It was a beautiful, original looking technique that was echoed again later in oversized leather weaving that created a thick cross hatch effect. De Vincenzo played with his weaves every which way, settling finally on a masterpiece grey snakeskin coat that had been woven with multi-coloured strips of python. The effect - a scintillating rainbow python checkerboard - created one of Milan's most memorable catwalk pieces.
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JJ Martin