Hermès A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s

Scene setting: Models strode through a scene populated with white graphic poles, painted with stripes of primary colour. Creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski was preoccupied with the concept of play, and her models walked through a world appearing to resemble a giant Bauahus version of Mikado.

Mood board: Just like the brand’s A/W 2020 models, making moves through a Mikado world, Vanhee-Cybulski has hit her sartorial stride. Last season she presented a collection that celebrated 90s minimalism, and for autumn she was preoccupied with ‘primary colours as a manifesto of purism’. This meant a host of classic silhouettes — a pleated shirt dress, a polo neck, a double layer quilted coat — imagined in a spectrum of reds, blues, greens and yellows. Fabrics, like leather and shearling were utterly luxurious, silhouettes flattering — lean, boxy or form enhancing — Vanhee-Cybulski reveling in functional but utterly covetable forms, from chocolate corduroy trouser suits to capes, cagoules to polo shirt dresses.

Finishing touches: There were imaginative hints to Hermès' own heritage here, that its devotees will delight in. A polo neck with an inbuilt foulard silk scarf which ties delicately around the neck, and another with a metal hardware neckline were both inspired by closure of its Birkin bags.