Gabriela Hearst A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s

Scene setting: Building upon her sustainable efforts from last season, which saw her stage the first-ever carbon neutral fashion show, Gabriela Hearst continued her campaign for change by experimenting with ways to incorporate waste while still staying true to her label's exacting luxury standards. This season, Hearst brought in bales of shredded recycled paper from a facility in Brooklyn to serve as the backdrop to her collection. Used as decoration for the runway show as well as tables on which Hearst served elegant culinary fare, the fluttering bales set a meaningful tone and tactility for the collection to follow.
Mood board: For A/W 2020, Hearst has assembled an effortless and versatile wardrobe comprised of fitted cashmere corduroy suits, suede trenchcoats, multicoloured space dye cashmere knits and hand crocheted dresses. Because the collection is rooted in an ecological vein, a large amount of the cashmere used is derived from recycled yarns. Some of the more decorative aspects include reappropriated remnants of antique Turkish rugs, which have been pieced together to form coats, as well as hand drawn mandala designs that have then been handpainted onto garments to convey both an artistic and energy-saving point of view. Mindfully made yet still displaying the same level of polish and quiet panache that the label is known for, this is sustainable fashion at its very best.
Best in show: Hearst's line of leather handbags are hard to beat but it was her commitment to creating a sustainable future that really deserves to be called out. From working with Mano de Uruguay, a non profit cooperative of female artisans, to do most of the hand knitting, to retrofitting existing pieces of cashmere outerwear to form new pieces and using Milano stitch silk yarns instead of elastane for stretch, Hearst's efforts were palpable on multiple scales — something we could all aspire to.
Gabriela Hearst A/W 2020
Gabriela Hearst A/W 2020
Gabriela Hearst A/W 2020
Gabriela Hearst A/W 2020
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Pei-Ru Keh is a former US Editor at Wallpaper*. Born and raised in Singapore, she has been a New Yorker since 2013. Pei-Ru held various titles at Wallpaper* between 2007 and 2023. She reports on design, tech, art, architecture, fashion, beauty and lifestyle happenings in the United States, both in print and digitally. Pei-Ru took a key role in championing diversity and representation within Wallpaper's content pillars, actively seeking out stories that reflect a wide range of perspectives. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and two children, and is currently learning how to drive.
-
After decades capturing the world’s fashion-set, photographer Johnny Rozsa picks up a paint brush
In his first exhibition of paintings, the New York-based artist celebrates the vibrancy of Tangier while rediscovering a familiar creative outlet
-
The Bentley EXP 15 brings the bling and delves into tomorrow's luxury automotive experience
The Bentley EXP 15 previews the company’s electric future, an asymmetric experiment in phygital form-making
-
Buccellati’s one-of-a-kind jewelled evening bags draw on a rich design history
The high jewellery house revisits intricate velvet clutch bag designs, originally created by Mario Buccellati in the 1920s and 1930s
-
Everything you need to know about the Met Gala 2025 and ‘Superfine: Tailoring Black Style’ exhibition
Everything Wallpaper* knows about the Met Gala 2025 – from the dress code to the exhibition theme and A-list co-chairs
-
Sarah Moon brings painterly fashion and dark fantasy to Fotografiska New York
Octogenarian French photographer and filmmaker Sarah Moon shows 30 years of work at Fotografiska New York – spanning fashion and fantasy, mystery and the macabre, it’s dark, painterly and compelling
-
‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion' is coming to The Met
The first of a two-part, year-long extravaganza, ‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion’ is organised into 12 sections that seek to define the emotional qualities in American style
-
Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis Group
Memphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
-
‘A place for the eye to pause’: Ulla Johnson unveils New York HQ
The Manhattan-born fashion designer opens a warmly-hued style sanctuary, created in collaboration with architect Rafael de Cárdenas
-
New York Fashion Week A/W 2021: drive thrus and digital distortion
New York Fashion Week's digital-first offering presented solutions to life post-pandemic and political crisis, from brands including Tom Ford, Proenza Schouler, Khaite and Collina Strada
-
Es Devlin-designed time-travelling exhibition opens at The Met’s Costume Institute
‘Our aim is to communicate the phenomenon of time as it is expressed through the female form,’ says Devlin of the exhibition she has designed alongside curator Andrew Bolton
-
Theory A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s