Mood board: Men haven’t walked on Roland Mouret’s runway since 2011, but for A/W 2019, several took a turn on his catwalk on the ground floor of the brutalist National Theatre. ‘It’s womenswear in big sizes! Guys came to see the collection and said, “I want these pieces!”’ Mouret said backstage. The masculine moment elucidated the theme of Mouret’s collection – an exploration of oversized silhouettes, inspired by the period he spent thrifting clothes, age 18, at French flea markets, irrespective of their gender or silhouette. He linked this concept with sustainability and mankind’s need to wear pieces independent of their specific seasonal silhouette. ‘We have to offer a symbolic solution to waste’, he explained. On the catwalk, that meant a predominant colour palette of purples, blues, reds and khakis, oversized overcoats and suiting, voluminously cut silk and lurex dresses and expertly draped blouses. These weren’t pieces with an avant-garde Balenciaga or Vetements oversized shape, but for Mouret’s customer, used to body-con proportions, there were new dimensions here. ‘You should never show safe pieces,’ he said.
Best in show: A white double-breasted suit was wonderfully elegant, and tapped into fashion’s current penchant for tailoring as evening wear. Flecked red and black tweed body skimming dresses and smart coats were luxuriously tactile.
Finishing touches: There was insouciance behind the show’s styling, which emphasised the relaxed oversized silhouettes in the collection. Double-breasted blazers and overcoats were thrown over the shoulders. A model walking down the catwalk walking a French dog named Dave, only added to the easy elegance.
Roland Mouret A/W 2019.
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Own an early John Lautner, perched in LA’s Echo Park hillsThe restored and updated Jules Salkin Residence by John Lautner is a unique piece of Californian design heritage, an early private house by the Frank Lloyd Wright acolyte that points to his future iconic status
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20 things that positively delighted us in and around Design Miami this yearFrom covetable 20th-century masterpieces to a tower made from ceramic pickles, these were the works that stood out amid the blur of Art Week
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Montcalm Mayfair opens a new chapter for a once-overlooked London hotelA thoughtful reinvention brings craftsmanship, character and an unexpected sense of warmth to a London hotel that was never previously on the radar
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‘Architect of glamour’ Antony Price makes a high-voltage return to the runway with 16ArlingtonFeaturing a runway debut from Lily Allen, the show saw legendary designer Antony Price – best known for outfitting Roxy Music in the 1980s – unite with 16Arlington’s Marco Capaldo on the sensual after-dark collection
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‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
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Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
