Lanvin A/W 2018
Olivier Lapidus presents a technicolor collection for the maison
Mood board: ‘I was thinking about the friends of Madame Lanvin,’ explained Olivier Lapidus at a preview of his second collection for the French maison. ‘I asked myself who are the friends of the house today?’ Lapidus was thinking about creative and technologically savvy women, and arrived at the work of New York-based artist Krista Kim, who uses light photography in her abstract works. The bold colours in her pieces acted as the starting point of the collection, and featured on dégradé plastic blazers, silk satin gowns, and tuxedo trousers. Lapidus was fascinated by technological details, referencing statistical diagrams of Twitter activity and aerial views of landscapes as inspiration, translated into long draped gowns or dresses with undulating ruffles. ‘It was about taking details from the past and twisting them’ he added, of a collection modern in its approach — like a peplum hem dress paired with trousers and a polo neck, a tuxedo jacket with an integrated silk collar, or a bell sleeve dress in satin silk, designed to resemble neoprene.
Best in show: Fashion’s penchant for the logo is showing no signs of decreasing in popularity, and for A/W 2018 Lapidus recreated the Lanvin name using the dots and dashes of Morse code. ‘We created a stripe pattern,’ he explained of the pattern amalgamated into beadwork details and translated into the brand’s catwalk jewellery. The house collaborated with Elie Top on a series of chunky metal torques, cuffs and rings, punctured with the graphic lines of Morse code.
Finishing touches: Lapidus used sportswear codes in his interpretation of today’s Lanvin woman — seen in dégradé shoulder bags with iPhone pockets or leather biker jackets with an insert on the back the size of an iPad. The Lanvin logo was printed on leather, and stitched as a sporty panel onto the sleeve of a gown, and more delicate pieces, like gauzy pleated skirts, were paired with ribbed knit sweaters, scuba divers hoods (an accessories signature of A/W 2018) and bold bum bags.
Wallpaper* Newsletter + Free Download
For a free digital copy of August Wallpaper*, celebrating Creative America, sign up today to receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories
-
LA cool meets modern vintage in Ivi jewellery
Ivi jewellery is inspired by LA's glamorous film heritage
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Hamburg’s new food court Le Big TamTam offers traditional flavours in an irreverent setting
Le Big TamTam, designed by Studio Aisslinger, marks a new era in Hamburg’s hospitality-rich Hanse District
By Sofia de la Cruz Published
-
Celebrating James Barnor, the photographer who captured pre- and post-colonial Ghana
Photographer James Barnor is in the spotlight at 95, his work the subject of a series of exhibitions and events in Ghana
By Ugonna-Ora Owoh Published
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Akris A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Givenchy A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Valentino A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated