Scene setting: Roksanda Ilincic enlisted contemporary Swiss artist Caroline Denervaud to create a wistful, painterly set for her A/W 2018 show. Denervaud, who studied contemporary dance before becoming a painter and performance artist, creates lines and spontaneous blocks of colour based upon her exploration of movement and emotion. Slim canvases were hung like sails from the ceiling of the runway, giving the collection – which comprised fluid silk dresses, colour-blocked parkas and swing dresses with sculptural panels – a greater sense of movement.
Mood board: The notion of clothing as protection first emerged during New York Fashion Week and has carried through to London. At Roksanda, the sentiment was expressed through long quilted coats (elegant, rather than bulky), thick shearling jackets, oversized scarves and even blankets, which the models clutched onto tightly or threw over their shoulders as they descended the runway. Colours, however, veered towards the calmer end of the spectrum, as though to pacify the wearer – think pale yellow, camel and duck-egg blue.
Best in show: While the finale dresses exemplified Ilincic’s masterful use of silk, iridescent sequins and tufts of tulle, there was no denying the perennial elegance of her outerwear. The oversized camel coat that opened the show, for example, is something that many women would enjoy revisiting season after season.
-
Like a modernist iceberg, this Krakow house has a perfectly chiselled façadeA Krakow house by Polish architecture studio UCEES unites brutalist materialities with modernist form
-
Leo Costelloe turns the kitchen into a site of fantasy and uneaseFor Frieze week, Costelloe transforms everyday domesticity into something intimate, surreal and faintly haunted at The Shop at Sadie Coles
-
Can surrealism be erotic? Yes if women can reclaim their power, says a London exhibition‘Unveiled Desires: Fetish & The Erotic in Surrealism, 1924–Today’ at London’s Richard Saltoun gallery examines the role of desire in the avant-garde movement
-
‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
-
Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Eva Rothschild creates original artworks for Roksanda at London Fashion WeekIn this Q&A Roksanda Ilinčić and Eva Rothschild discuss their artistic collaboration for Roksanda's A/W 2022 show at London Fashion Week
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
