Scene setting: Roksanda Ilincic enlisted contemporary Swiss artist Caroline Denervaud to create a wistful, painterly set for her A/W 2018 show. Denervaud, who studied contemporary dance before becoming a painter and performance artist, creates lines and spontaneous blocks of colour based upon her exploration of movement and emotion. Slim canvases were hung like sails from the ceiling of the runway, giving the collection – which comprised fluid silk dresses, colour-blocked parkas and swing dresses with sculptural panels – a greater sense of movement.
Mood board: The notion of clothing as protection first emerged during New York Fashion Week and has carried through to London. At Roksanda, the sentiment was expressed through long quilted coats (elegant, rather than bulky), thick shearling jackets, oversized scarves and even blankets, which the models clutched onto tightly or threw over their shoulders as they descended the runway. Colours, however, veered towards the calmer end of the spectrum, as though to pacify the wearer – think pale yellow, camel and duck-egg blue.
Best in show: While the finale dresses exemplified Ilincic’s masterful use of silk, iridescent sequins and tufts of tulle, there was no denying the perennial elegance of her outerwear. The oversized camel coat that opened the show, for example, is something that many women would enjoy revisiting season after season.
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Complex and stimulating, Federico Stefanovich's industrial designs act like a bridge between culture and economicsIn a rapidly changing world, the route designers take to discover their calling is increasingly circuitous. Here Federico Stefanovich tells us about his increasing desire to find his own path
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Amelia Stevens' playful, minimalist design 'is geared towards beauty as a function of longevity'In a rapidly changing world, the route designers take to discover their calling is increasingly circuitous. Here we speak to Amelia Stevens about the multi-disciplinary joy of design
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Design practice Astraeus Clarke is inspired by cinema to tell a story and evoke an emotionIn a rapidly changing world, the route designers take to discover their calling is increasingly circuitous. Here we speak to Chelsie and Jacob Starley the creative duo behind Astraeus Clarke
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Eva Rothschild creates original artworks for Roksanda at London Fashion WeekIn this Q&A Roksanda Ilinčić and Eva Rothschild discuss their artistic collaboration for Roksanda's A/W 2022 show at London Fashion Week
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
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London Fashion Week S/S 2022: eight important insights to know nowFashion brands are back with a bang in The Big Smoke. Here’s everything you need to know from London Fashion Week S/S 2022
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Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London -
Optimism and pragmatism align at London Fashion Week S/S 2021In a socially-distanced show season different to any other, LFW's designers offered images of hope, escapism and utilitarianism
