Mood board: Hussein Chalayan has never been one to shy away from pressing sociopolitical issues. For AW18, the designer tackled the subject of immigration, and more specifically, the importance of integration. Titled Périphérique (or peripheral) the collection articulated a violent imaginary journey starting from centre of Paris to its banlieues – the suburbs which have come to define unintegrated immigration. What followed was a series of strong, sharp-edged tailored skirt-suits and high-necked blanket coats that gave way to softer, more liberated dresses, tunics and trousers in a placid palette.
Show setting: Chalayan returned to Sadler’s Wells once again this season, presenting his runway show on a large white stage usually intended for contemporary dance performances. The venue was apt, given the carefully choreographed routine, which saw models circle and walk alongside each other, occasionally stopping as though being confronted or interrupted. A video showing a hazy winter’s journey around the outskirts of a town, as seen by a fast moving car or train at a distance, was projected onto the backdrop of the set.
Best in show: Translucent plastic headpieces – some of which were constructed to entirely cover the face like a modern-day gas mask – communicated the idea of putting up a physical barrier within a community. While a procession of harmonious two-tone pleated silk dresses with undulating tulle overlays offered an optimistic conclusion to the show.
Chalayan A/W 2018.
Chalayan A/W 2018.
Chalayan A/W 2018.
-
A former fisherman’s cottage in Brittany is transformed by a new timber extensionParis-based architects A-platz have woven new elements into the stone fabric of this traditional Breton cottage
-
New York's members-only boom shows no sign of stopping – and it's about to get even more nicheFrom bathing clubs to listening bars, gatekeeping is back in a big way. Here's what's driving the wave of exclusivity
-
The diverse world of Belgian embassy design – 'style and class without exaggeration''Building for Belgium: Belgian Embassies in a Globalising World' offers a deep dive into the architecture representing the country across the globe – bringing context to diplomatic architecture
-
‘Architect of glamour’ Antony Price makes a high-voltage return to the runway with 16ArlingtonFeaturing a runway debut from Lily Allen, the show saw legendary designer Antony Price – best known for outfitting Roxy Music in the 1980s – unite with 16Arlington’s Marco Capaldo on the sensual after-dark collection
-
‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
-
Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
