Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2017

Scene setting: A series of key rings on a metal chain served as the invitation to the show, held at the Cité de la Mode et du Design, an industrial space with a distinctive bright green caged exterior. The key ring motif did not just stop there: models with black fabric skullcaps sported them as dangling hair accessories or earrings.
Mood board: The typically all-black collection (finished here and there with red, green and cream painted details) demonstrated Yohji Yamamoto’s consistent ability to pleat, fold and manipulate fabric into unique and unusual constructions. Looks came with softer ruching and padding that brought new form to the body, and with more architectural fan-pleated silhouettes. Breaking down the collection, there was an asymmetric shirt dress with horizontal pleats, high-waisted worker trousers and a bomber jacket with ribbed details and puffed sleeves.
Best in show: A series of closing looks, marked out using bowler hats as matching accessories, culminated in minimal and exquisitely cut tailoring. Double-breasted, belted or single-buttoned coats brought a more commercial close to the experimental constructions in the collection.
Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2017.
Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2017.
Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2017.
Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2017.
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Here’s what to order (and admire) at Carbone London
New York’s favourite, and buzziest, Italian restaurant arrives in the British capital, marking the brand’s first expansion into Europe
-
Griffin Frazen on conceiving the cinematic runway sets for New York label Khaite: ‘If people feel moved we’ve succeeded’
The architectural designer – who helped conceive the sets for ‘The Brutalist’ – collaborates with his wife Catherine Holstein on the scenography for her Khaite runway shows, the latest of which took place in NYFW this past weekend
-
How to travel meaningfully in an increasingly generic world
Lauren Ho explores the need for resonance, not reach, in the way we choose to make journeys of discovery
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expect
Five moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris
‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's