Y/ Project A/W 2017
Designer Glenn Martens excels with his distinctive and mixed-up aesthetic.
Moodboard: Bombastic. That's what the last show of the day was. Mind you, it takes imagination to excite the minds of tired fashion editors at 10pm after a whole day of shows. And yet Glenn Martens manages to do so effortlessly, every time. This season, his recipe included a diverse range of looks, with enough variety in each one to you make you feel like Alice falling down a street wear rabbit hole. An inspired cocktail, ranging from puffer jackets to corsets, tracksuits to denim, that worked wonders on the audience.
Best in show: Where to begin? A white sequinned hooded onesie. Embroidered jeans. An XXL faux fur coat. Translucent plastic. Thigh high boots. Oversized bombers. Taffeta trouser suits. It's not easy to get away with so much information all in one show, but somehow it all worked marvellously well. The Belgian designer's unique mix of streetwear and ultra precious influences (jogging pants in grosgrain? Check. Pussy bows in thick leather? Check) keeps getting more and more refined with each passing season.
Finishing touches: Spiralling pearl earrings graced many of the looks, adding a further baroque layer to the collection. In the same line, we were delighted to see again the ‘Napoleon-Josephine’ XXL scarves (that were prominently debuted during the menswear show a month ago) featuring intarsia portraits of the French Emperors... in a football scarf aesthetic.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
- Jason Lloyd-Evans - PhotographyPhotography
-
Tekαkαpimək Contact Station: a building ‘as inspiring as the endless forest and waterways of the land’
The new Tekαkαpimək Contact Station by Saunders Architecture with Reed Hilderbrand and Alisberg Parker Architects, opens at Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument in the USA
By Beth Broome Published
-
Bentley collaborates with fashion designer Supriya Lele to create ‘Nīla Blue’
This one-off Bentley Bentayga S showcases a new paint and interior specification created with Indian-British designer Supriya Lele
By Shawn Adams Published
-
Wallpaper* checks in at Yoruya, a Japanese inn where less is always more
Yoruya, which transforms a 110-year-old former kimono merchant shopfront and residence in Kurashiki, is an exercise in graceful restraint and craft
By Joanna Kawecki Published
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to Hermès
In this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated