Mood board: It was a typically diverse and eccentric collection from John Galliano at Maison Margiela, combining the house’s deconstructed codes- a cut out trench-coat with a corset silhouette, a double-breasted coat with sheer panels, with an extensive range of references. Deconstructed varsity jackets, layered with plaid suits and Statue of Liberty cut out details nodded to America, a focal point of many collections for A/W 2017, the Statue of Liberty silhouette emphasised even more with crown-like baker boy hats in shearling and suede. Polka-dots, tapestry-prints, and jackets patchworked with tartan scarves all added to the more-is-more effect.
Best in show: A cream tailored suit, paired with an asymmetric bandeau top was a more toned down take on the collection, while an oversized tweed jacket, cinched at the waist, featured interesting cut outs in the shape of amphibious animals.
Finishing touches: At Dior, Galliano always maintained an obsession with millinery, and during his tenure at Maison Margiela he has imagined both bee-keeper hats and futuristic skull caps. For A/W 2017, he turned the 5AC bag, first seen on the A/W 2016 runway, literally on its head, adorning its base with feathers and placing it as a hat on models heads. Peacock feathers and strands of thread also acted as hair accessories, while elbow length gloves were covered DIY-style with colourful stickers. Margiela’s iconic two toed ‘Tabi’ boot was also reimainged with a sporty drawstring detail, in claret and grey snakeskin.
