Junya Watanabe A/W 2017
Scene setting: Last year, Joe Corré, son of Vivienne Westwood and Sex Pistols manager Malcolm McLaren, burned £5m of his punk memorabilia. His mementos, from vinyls to buckled and distressed designs from his parents’ SEX boutique on Kings Road, would no doubt have appealed to Junya Watanabe. His A/W 2017 collection was a celebration of all things punk, from tartan to leopard print, fishnets to Dr Martens, the cut-and-paste aesthetic of punk culture given his typically architectural twist. As audience members discussed the high volume of Watanabe’s soundtracks (it was the first show of the morning), a soundtrack featuring T Rex’s 20th Century Boy and Children of the Revolution blasted down the long catwalk at the Faculty of Pharmacy in Paris.
Best in show: It was a show that celebrated Watanabe’s most noted designs – sculptural jackets resembling folding origami or patchwork circles, reworked leather jackets and deconstructed skirts. Watanabe has always been a fan of tartan, and this punk signature was cut and pasted in a variety of patterns, alongside leopard prints and rich upholstery fabrics. However avant-garde, Watanabe’s collections always make use of classic and universally wearable silhouettes; a camel trench-coat featured distinctive patchwork sleeves, while a black tuxedo overcoat featured panels of plaid and leopard print. An impressive experiment in fabrication, a school uniform tartan dress featured tiny pleats that swirled concentrically from the middle of the body.
Finishing touches: In true punk from, models sported cropped mohawks and mullets in a variety of bright colours. They stomped the catwalk in dog collar chokers, fishnet tights and thick-soled creepers, some even theatrically throwing off their coats to the sea of watching photographers.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
-
Studio Twenty Seven opens a sprawling flagship in New York
Studio Twenty Seven, the celebrated collectible design platform, joins Tribeca’s gallery scene with a new space that is an extension of the gallerists' own home
By Adrian Madlener Published
-
For spring, designers reimagine the classic trench coat
Uniquely chic interpretations of the classic trench coat from the S/S 2024 collections, primed for both bright spring days and inevitable April showers
By Jack Moss Published
-
Sir Kenneth Grange’s influential industrial designs are chronicled in a new book
‘Kenneth Grange: Designing the Modern World’ explores the life and work of the pioneering British industrial designer
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Akris A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Givenchy A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Valentino A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated