Calvin Klein A/W 2017
Mood board: Calvin Klein’s A/W 2017 collection was Americana seen through the eyes of Raf Simons. For his first outing as Calvin Klein’s creative chief officer, Simons paraded his version of the very fabrics — literally and figuratively — that make up the United States: handcrafted Amish quilts, protective plastic coating, and denim that referenced everything from Wall Street power broker suiting to the classic cowboy uniform. Simons proved that he still has the magic touch; the men’s and women’s collections were innovative, wearable and well designed with Simons’ and creative director Pieter Mulier’s aesthetic sensibilities, all while maintaining the DNA of the Calvin Klein brand.
Scene setting: Simons tapped his longtime collaborator, the Los Angeles-based artist Sterling Ruby to conceive the set of his first Calvin Klein runway show, which was located at the label’s headquarters in New York’s Garment District. Flag, a bleached and dyed canvas artwork by Ruby is one of the artworks featured in the brand’s new campaign, and for the show the artist got free reign. Ruby dangled his signature flourishes — stuffed vertical forms covered with abstract prints, fringe streamers, and silver buckets, with the addition of fabric covered with Calvin Klein’s new logo, designed by Simons and art director and graphic designer Peter Saville, from the ground floor’s ceiling.
Best in show: A gold fur coat covered with a protective layer of plastic and tied at the waist with a rope belt was one of the show stealers. A skirt composed of an American flag was draped around the waist and teamed with a knee-length coat, with a black and white abstract print that resembled Ruby’s work. Parkas camed lined with logo cabin design patchwork quilts.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Ann Binlot is a Brooklyn-based freelance writer who covers art, fashion, design, architecture, food, and travel for publications like Wallpaper*, the Wall Street Journal, and Monocle. She is also editor-at-large at Document Journal and Family Style magazines.
-
Remembering Christopher Charles Benninger (1942-2024)
Architect Christopher Charles Benninger has died in Pune, India, at the age of 82; we honour and reflect on his passing
By Aastha D Published
-
Chanel shows its sporting colours with a bold high jewellery collection
Chanel's high jewellery collection is inspired by its founder’s athletic aesthetic
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Sarah Solis’ first furniture collection is an homage to art deco
‘Is it weird to call furniture sexy?’ Los Angeles-based designer Sarah Solis discusses her debut furniture line and new brand and store, Galerie Solis
By Dan Howarth Published
-
Sarah Moon brings painterly fashion and dark fantasy to Fotografiska New York
Octogenarian French photographer and filmmaker Sarah Moon shows 30 years of work at Fotografiska New York – spanning fashion and fantasy, mystery and the macabre, it’s dark, painterly and compelling
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion' is coming to The Met
The first of a two-part, year-long extravaganza, ‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion’ is organised into 12 sections that seek to define the emotional qualities in American style
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis Group
Memphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
‘A place for the eye to pause’: Ulla Johnson unveils New York HQ
The Manhattan-born fashion designer opens a warmly-hued style sanctuary, created in collaboration with architect Rafael de Cárdenas
By Tilly Macalister-Smith Last updated
-
Es Devlin-designed time-travelling exhibition opens at The Met’s Costume Institute
‘Our aim is to communicate the phenomenon of time as it is expressed through the female form,’ says Devlin of the exhibition she has designed alongside curator Andrew Bolton
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons rove the digital realm for S/S 2021
‘Technology is a part of humanity itself’ said the duo of their live streamed S/S 2021 show
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Explore the history of Austrian fashion through 250 objects in Vienna
Vienna's Museum of Applied Arts presents a major exhibition exploring the Austrian fashion scene
By Max Feldman Published
-
Theory A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
By Tilly Macalister-Smith Last updated