Roksanda A/W 2017
The Serbian designer’s latest collection is a powerful medley in red and blue
Scene setting: Working with longtime collaborator Gary Card, the Serbian designer often imagines geometric forms as part of her runway design. For A/W 2017, this culminated in a series of shapes in reds and blues hanging mobile-like along the catwalk of the underground space, wrapped in metallic threads. These geometric cutouts also acted as embellishments on dresses and hung from the ear as oversized single-earrings. Pianist Michael Nyman provided a live musical accompaniment.
Mood board: Roksanda dedicated her collection to the late Australian fashion designer Richard Nicoll. The designer met Nicoll while studying at Central Saint Martins and both debuted at London Fashion Week as part of Fashion East. Friends of the designer have collaborated with Pantone to create the shade ‘Nicoll Blue’ in his honour, and Roksanda’s first look, a fluid long sleeve dress with a kimono-style belt was imagined in this sky-like shade. A series of draped looks followed in blues, reds and blacks, paired with quilted, colour blocked and tweed coats, and finished with geometric embellishments.
Finishing touches: Roksanda collaborated with the London-based shoe brand Malone Souliers for a second season. Nappa leather boots featured colour blocked heels and drawstring ties. ‘The silhouette consisted of a tailored boot till the ankle, then with added slouch to reflect Roksanda’s flowing designs,’ Mary Alice Malone and Roy Luwolt of Malone Souliers’ explained.