Scene setting: Paris’ Maison de la Radio, complete with its rain soaked view of the Eiffel Tower, offered a show venue in the round for Anthony Vaccarello’s buzzy A/W 2016 presentation, which was stocked ringside with more than a couple of his favourite supers – Freja, Anja and Amber Valletta included – along with a large contingency of the international media core on the first day of PFW. The latter’s presence so early on in the week only served to further fuel the rumours that Vaccarello may be adding another top job (post Versus) to his resume in the very near future.
Mood board: The dusk-timed show started with plenty of black denim and corsetry-style laced blazers possessing the raw, rock ’n’ roll glamour that the Belgian-Italian designer’s now well known for (read: not for the faint hearted or those not in possession of supermodel status pins). The lacing continued from here, adorning jumpsuits, the odd full-legged pant (paired with an actual lace bustier), and minis en masse – albeit all possessing a racy Parisienne sensuality.
Best in show: Vaccarello’s leather works, from a novel new leather hoodie dress to his double-breasted leather blazer that channelled Princess Stéphanie of Monaco, circa 1987. Other highlights tolled a slightly softer sequence of perforated suede mini dresses, that were later studded and flounced with ruffles in his signature asymmetric style.
