Scene setting: Just days after Tommy Hilfiger installed a giant ocean liner in the Park Avenue Armory, Marc Jacobs transformed the mammoth art space into a giant white box with seats in the round. White-washed floorboards set a cold, eerie feel, which would become all the more apparent once the procession began.
Mood board: Jacobs credited the Japanese musician Keiji Haino, who's known for the concept of ma – 'the haunted spaces between the notes' – as a key thought for the collection. Sure enough, set to the ringing of a single bell, which increased in frequency and pace as the show went on, models donning sky-high, patented platform boots, striped stockings and a myriad of gothic, Victorian-influenced garb stormed the runway with heavy black make-up and hair done in tightly worked finger curls.
Best in show: Incredibly theatrical pieces such as long overcoats festooned with embroidery and sequins, oversized patchwork fur coats and stoles exaggerated in shape, voluminous ball gown skirts in prints made out of the shapes of hands and intricately woven lace dresses that hung delicately off the figure, were just some of the evocative highlights of Jacobs' dark fantasy.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
Have fun with Le Ster’s engagement ring collectionLe Ster’s engagement rings encompass bold and fun forms
-
Palm Heights hotel is a Caribbean getaway with a game-changing new spa
Palm Heights hotel in Grand Cayman is the Caribbean destination that everyone is talking about. Here’s why
-
Kent Andreasen on failed memories, the fear of AI, and keeping things simple
Cape Town-based photographer Kent Andreasen features in ‘Through the lens’, our monthly series spotlighting Wallpaper* contributors
-
Sarah Moon brings painterly fashion and dark fantasy to Fotografiska New York
Octogenarian French photographer and filmmaker Sarah Moon shows 30 years of work at Fotografiska New York – spanning fashion and fantasy, mystery and the macabre, it’s dark, painterly and compelling
-
‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion' is coming to The Met
The first of a two-part, year-long extravaganza, ‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion’ is organised into 12 sections that seek to define the emotional qualities in American style
-
Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis Group
Memphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
-
‘A place for the eye to pause’: Ulla Johnson unveils New York HQ
The Manhattan-born fashion designer opens a warmly-hued style sanctuary, created in collaboration with architect Rafael de Cárdenas
-
Es Devlin-designed time-travelling exhibition opens at The Met’s Costume Institute
‘Our aim is to communicate the phenomenon of time as it is expressed through the female form,’ says Devlin of the exhibition she has designed alongside curator Andrew Bolton
-
Theory A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
-
Michael Kors A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
-
Gabriela Hearst A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
