Loewe A/W 2015
Eighties exuberance proves to be an upbeat offering from Jonathan Anderson
Mood board: Jonathan Anderson carried the Eighties exuberance that he debuted at his namesake London label to Loewe for A/W, delivering an upbeat offering that was once again built around the house's leather expertise, albeit punctuated by his juxtapositions of soft hues and blinding brights that were a little bit Mad Science.
Scene setting: The creative director returned to the jutting concrete support slabs, rock walls and cement block stools of the UNESCO headquarter's paved entrance as his preferred Paris show space. The raw bedrock surrounds offered a cool, serene contrast to the collection's arresting colour and texture combinations.
Best in show: Anderson's fluid wide-legged pants were a big hit in hide last season and for winter he recut them in herringbone with cargo pockets scattered about. The material's graphic texture played nicely with his batwing buffalo bomber jackets, so soft that they were drawn into elastic waistbands. However, it was the modern line of his leather and patent lab coats that got our A-grade, simply sealed with double-breasted press studs. Metallic lamé pleating, smocking and geometric patterns also got into the glamour era's swing, and were set back with nude turtlenecks and suede boots that sported coloured speed stripes across the toes.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
-
A guide to Frank Gehry's architecture: mesmerising, expressive and sometimes controversial
Canadian-American Frank Gehry has earned his position in the hall of fame of contemporary architects through a wealth of groundbreaking designs; here, we explore why, how, and his key projects
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
A nature-inspired exhibition takes root at California's Salmon Creek Farm
'Jinen' presents new works by Dan John Anderson, Kazunori Hamana, Yu Kobayashi, and Ido Yoshimoto at Fritz Haeg’s cultural commune and creative hub in California’s redwood forest
By Léa Teuscher Published
-
Chanel Comète: the exclusive fragrance creates the scent of stardust on your skin
As Chanel releases Comète, the latest fragrance from Les Exclusifs de Chanel, its creator Olivier Polge speaks with Laura Bailey about his process
By Hannah Tindle Published