Haider Ackermann A/W 2015

Three women, one wearing a black and gold trouser suit, one in a black and red jacket and black corduroy trousers, and one in a black leather jacket — (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Mood board: The wildly teased hair was the first clue that Haider Ackermann was up to something new for autumn. More surprising than the ‘dos was the designer's beautiful foray into the classical world of colourful tweed, which he sliced up with his signature sharp tailoring.

Best in show: The micro pleating used on leather mini skirts and the peplums of wool jackets showed exactly the kind of workmanship Ackermann is capable of. We loved the intricately plisséd skirts in heavy printed wools.

Finishing touches: Obi belts in graphic checkerboard prints gave the collection a new pattern-tactic vibe, while pin thin heels on over-the-knee boots maintained the collection's sexy edge.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

One woman wearing a leopard print coat over a pink silk blouse and white trousers and a woman wearing a black and gold coat over a black sheer striped shirt and black trousers

One woman wearing a black, blue and glittery jacket with checkerboard detailing, one in a brown jacket over animal print blouse, and one in a black, white and blue jacket over a black blouse with white polka dots and a checkerboard belt

Three female models, one wearing a shiny black jacket with a black scarf with white polka dots, one in a blue plaid shirt and one in a black vest and black trousers

Three female models, one wearing a blue plaid shirt with white silk detailing, one in a black vest and trousers, and one in a black jacket

JJ Martin