Olivier Rousteing's hip-hop soundtrack set the scene for A/W, as Jourdan Dunn strode onto his Perspex runway in a leather utility biker jacket and silk cargo pants, as the lyrics went on to decree, 'she wants it... so I gotta get it to her'. This exuberance for a patch pocket was first seen in New York at Alexander Wang, although this outing was set to be a far sexier R&B groove. Leather cargo versions soon marched by, despite the fact that the Balmain woman is not really the type to need to carry anything more than her attitude. The tribal beat built with coiled neckpieces, weighty gold bamboo hoop earrings, and the house's strong-shouldered jackets, cinched with a pleated peplum and teamed back with studded Roman gladiator skirts, as the military influence strode along, climaxing with a one-shouldered officer's uniform that was strictly for after-dark territory. Far from being a democratising leveller, Rousteing's uniforms were awarded a decorated status, and came dripping with the tight-laced manipulations we've come to expect from the 28-year-old's meticulously worked ready-to-wear. His warrior muse was loud and proud, inspired by Peter Beard's safari photography, and women of his generation. Rousteing's rope braiding leapt off a General's epaulette to form heavy, body-con numbers that even gave Rosie Huntington-Whiteley a little extra bootie. In essence the Balmain woman's got game, and even more than usual, thanks to a selection of re-worked African pelts from leopard to zebra, paired-back with his global nomad's laced-up tortoiseshell heels.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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Nina Runsdorf brings classic jewellery back to life to mark 20 yearsNew York-based jewellery designer Nina Runsdorf celebrates her eponymous brand’s anniversary with a new jewellery collection, ‘Archive’
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Enter the world of Cave Bureau, and its architectural and geological explorationsNairobi practice Cave Bureau explores architecture’s role in the geological afterlives of colonialism, as part of a team exhibiting at the British pavilion at the Venice Architecture Biennale 2025
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All-In is the Paris-based label making full-force fashion for main character dressingPart of our monthly Uprising series, Wallpaper* meets Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø of All-In, the LVMH Prize-nominated label which bases its collections on a riotous cast of characters – real and imagined
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
