Olivier Rousteing's hip-hop soundtrack set the scene for A/W, as Jourdan Dunn strode onto his Perspex runway in a leather utility biker jacket and silk cargo pants, as the lyrics went on to decree, 'she wants it... so I gotta get it to her'. This exuberance for a patch pocket was first seen in New York at Alexander Wang, although this outing was set to be a far sexier R&B groove. Leather cargo versions soon marched by, despite the fact that the Balmain woman is not really the type to need to carry anything more than her attitude. The tribal beat built with coiled neckpieces, weighty gold bamboo hoop earrings, and the house's strong-shouldered jackets, cinched with a pleated peplum and teamed back with studded Roman gladiator skirts, as the military influence strode along, climaxing with a one-shouldered officer's uniform that was strictly for after-dark territory. Far from being a democratising leveller, Rousteing's uniforms were awarded a decorated status, and came dripping with the tight-laced manipulations we've come to expect from the 28-year-old's meticulously worked ready-to-wear. His warrior muse was loud and proud, inspired by Peter Beard's safari photography, and women of his generation. Rousteing's rope braiding leapt off a General's epaulette to form heavy, body-con numbers that even gave Rosie Huntington-Whiteley a little extra bootie. In essence the Balmain woman's got game, and even more than usual, thanks to a selection of re-worked African pelts from leopard to zebra, paired-back with his global nomad's laced-up tortoiseshell heels.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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Inside the new theatre at Jacob’s Pillow and its ‘magic box’, part of a pioneering complex designed for danceJacob’s Pillow welcomes the reborn Doris Duke Theatre by Mecanoo, a new space that has just opened in the beloved Berkshires cultural hub for the summer season
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What to see at Rencontres d’Arles 2025, questioning power structures in the state and familySuppressed memories resurface in sharply considered photography at Rencontres d'Arles 2025. Here are some standout photographers to see
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Is this London’s slickest burger joint?Already proven in Paris, Dumbo’s smash-hit formula of precision, confidence, and simplicity arrives in Shoreditch – and yes, it’s worth the wait
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Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
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Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
