Having now had ample time to delve into Balenciaga's archives, artistic director Alexander Wang believed it was time to weave knitwear into the French house's codes for his third season at its helm. Crafted for a jet-setting woman as busy as Wang, the designer's knitted shapes came as finished looks, rather than interloping layered pieces. Even his leather dresses were tightly needled together, while others were made of intricate laser-cut 'chain mail' jersey. Extending the theme to outwear were raincoats constructed from a cable-knit foundation and laminated in Latex - a trompe l'oeil effect that continued throughout the collection. Wang's interest in reinventing the pant also embraced new elements. Some were combined with asymmetrical skirts, as sleeker versions featured zippered hardware, used to create crosses on his trousers and rounded woollen dresses. Leaning more on the house's lineage were Wang's encrusted pearl and rhinestone sweaters, fused with duchess satin and inspired by a brooch that he found in the Cristobal Balenciaga archive. Not to be outdone were his colourful crocodile gloves that concealed built-in wallets - a perfect finishing touch for his globalised girl-on-the-go who often had her hands full with multiple Balenciaga shopping totes.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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