Narciso Rodriguez is the king of understated detail. In his latest collection, the designer veered away from the figure-conscious silhouettes that made his name to explore a more liberated one with lots of movement. Silk shift tops and dresses were fluid and responsive to the body's gait. Wool jackets and coats effortlessly swung open, revealing contrasting colour blocked details on their interior linings. Despite the looser shapes, the collection still demonstrated the designer's architectural approach, with the addition of subtle darting, curved seams and gentle pleating to enforce some structure. The palette as always was made up of pretty neutral shades with hits of red, saffron and lavender thrown in to provide gravitas. Rodriguez closed the show with several pieces embellished with intricate bronze beading and embroidery. Perfectly juxtaposed with slouchy wool trousers, they proved that even the loyalist of minimalists could do with a little decorating.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
