Narciso Rodriguez A/W 2014

A separate image of different models posing for a picture

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Narciso Rodriguez is the king of understated detail. In his latest collection, the designer veered away from the figure-conscious silhouettes that made his name to explore a more liberated one with lots of movement. Silk shift tops and dresses were fluid and responsive to the body's gait. Wool jackets and coats effortlessly swung open, revealing contrasting colour blocked details on their interior linings. Despite the looser shapes, the collection still demonstrated the designer's architectural approach, with the addition of subtle darting, curved seams and gentle pleating to enforce some structure. The palette as always was made up of pretty neutral shades with hits of red, saffron and lavender thrown in to provide gravitas. Rodriguez closed the show with several pieces embellished with intricate bronze beading and embroidery. Perfectly juxtaposed with slouchy wool trousers, they proved that even the loyalist of minimalists could do with a little decorating.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

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Pei-Ru Keh is a former US Editor at Wallpaper*. Born and raised in Singapore, she has been a New Yorker since 2013. Pei-Ru held various titles at Wallpaper* between 2007 and 2023. She reports on design, tech, art, architecture, fashion, beauty and lifestyle happenings in the United States, both in print and digitally. Pei-Ru took a key role in championing diversity and representation within Wallpaper's content pillars, actively seeking out stories that reflect a wide range of perspectives. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and two children, and is currently learning how to drive.