If you're going to drag fashion editors 40 minutes away from the city centre to the New York borough of Brooklyn for a late night fashion show in the middle of an icy winter, expectations amongst show guests are inevitably going to run higher than usual. From first glance, it was hard to fully comprehend Alexander Wang's unusual choice of location. After all, only a tiny corner of an enormous white steel and glass building, sitting in the midst of The Brooklyn Navy Yard, had been colonised for the show space. We could have, potentially, been anywhere. Much of the discomfort, however, soon dissipated with the arrival of twitching lights and thunderous music, followed by a storm of stomping feet belonging to models encased in over the knee boots with built in shin guards and white rubber soles. Wang put on the power this season, significantly upping his fashion ante in a more menacing, aggressive way. Part of this had to do with the women's hair, which had been spray painted a matte burglar black and clipped short like a boy's; but mainly it was thanks to clothes that were bulky, boxy, oversized and stiffened. Leather shorts and skirts, for example, were embossed and mutilated with perforations, while shearling and net jackets had the proportions of a refrigerator. Sportswear hybrids are where Wang excels and this season he delivered stellar grey flannel or navy wool jackets that were covered in fisherman's pockets and paired with shin guard mule boots. The rotating fashion carousel was a final flourish, and all in good fun. But couldn't it have happened at Pier 94 in Manhattan?
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
JJ Martin
-
The White House faced the wrecking ball. Are these federal buildings next?Architects and preservationists weigh in on five buildings to watch in 2026, from brutalist icons to the 'Sistine Chapel' of New Deal art
-
Georgia Kemball's jewellery has Dover Street Market's stamp of approval: discover it hereSelf-taught jeweller Georgia Kemball is inspired by fairytales for her whimsical jewellery
-
The best way to see Mount Fuji? Book a stay hereAt the western foothills of Mount Fuji, Gora Kadan’s second property translates imperial heritage into a deeply immersive, design-led retreat
-
The standout shows of New York Fashion Week S/S 2026 – as they happenedHeralding the start of fashion month, the latest edition of NYFW took place in the city this week. Here, in our rolling round-up, Wallpaper* picks the highlights
-
Everything you need to know about the Met Gala 2025 and ‘Superfine: Tailoring Black Style’ exhibitionEverything Wallpaper* knows about the Met Gala 2025 – from the dress code to the exhibition theme and A-list co-chairs
-
Sarah Moon brings painterly fashion and dark fantasy to Fotografiska New YorkOctogenarian French photographer and filmmaker Sarah Moon shows 30 years of work at Fotografiska New York – spanning fashion and fantasy, mystery and the macabre, it’s dark, painterly and compelling
-
‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion' is coming to The MetThe first of a two-part, year-long extravaganza, ‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion’ is organised into 12 sections that seek to define the emotional qualities in American style
-
Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis GroupMemphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
-
‘A place for the eye to pause’: Ulla Johnson unveils New York HQThe Manhattan-born fashion designer opens a warmly-hued style sanctuary, created in collaboration with architect Rafael de Cárdenas
-
Es Devlin-designed time-travelling exhibition opens at The Met’s Costume Institute‘Our aim is to communicate the phenomenon of time as it is expressed through the female form,’ says Devlin of the exhibition she has designed alongside curator Andrew Bolton
-
A decade of fashion show history in picturesBritish photographer Jason Lloyd Evans shares his favourite backstage images, from the runway shows of Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel, Armani, Proenza Schouler, Versace and more