In comparison to the last several seasons that we've seen from this Milanese designer, A/W was tame by Versace standards. The mistress of maximalism began her show with an almost sober long sleeve, bias-cut dress with asymmetrical hems. Sure, the knee-length skirt had some kick to it, but the clean wool jersey material - later worked in brilliant shades of turquoise, jade and cinnamon - created a calming canvas that felt newly tranquil. Boxy jackets and trapeze shaped coats, especially in deeply hued couture duchesse silk satin, also gave the collection an altered - and welcomed - calibration. That is not to say however that the Versace girls lost their va va voom. Hemlines were still scant, hips were still hugged, and accessories were still generously embraced. In fact, gold metal sprouted liberally along studded trims, on coin bracelets, across embellished bags, and even on gold embroidered sashes that wrapped around figure-hugging gowns, not unlike a beauty pageant queen. Donatella used a military compass to guide the rigorous tailoring of her latest collection and also used the opportunity to shower mini dresses in officer's button, and snug jackets with gold frogging or corporal-like epaulettes. Suede fringe, meanwhile, found its way onto mini skirts and draping off intarsia mink coats. That, coupled with the saucy suede lace-up high boots featuring intricate beading and embroidery, seemed like an irresistible move to sexpot territory.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
New book 'I-IN' brings together Japanese heritage and minimalist architecture at its finestJapanese architecture studio I-IN flaunts its expert command of 21st-century minimalism in a new book by Frame Publishers
-
Wallpaper* checks in at MACAM Hotel: a night at the museumPortugal’s first hotel-museum is home to 600 pieces of modern and contemporary art and 64 rooms for the ultimate artistic immersion
-
This joyful Henri Matisse pottery collection is your new summer entertaining essentialAfter years at the helm of American ceramics company East Fork, the artist’s great-grandson is ready to embrace his family name
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to PradaFrom Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega VenetaIn this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
-
Now you can admire every Versace catwalk look from your bookshelfDive into this Versace-celebrating book, which amasses more than 40 years of fashion shows and 1,200 catwalk images
-
Sweats and sequins: the duality of dressing at Milan Fashion Week S/S 2021Brands from Dolce & Gabbana to Valentino considered post pandemic dressing, with escapist and pragmatic silhouettes presented with aplomb
-
A decade of fashion show history in picturesBritish photographer Jason Lloyd Evans shares his favourite backstage images, from the runway shows of Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel, Armani, Proenza Schouler, Versace and more
-
Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's -
Bottega Veneta A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's -
Ports 1961 A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
