Versace A/W 2014

In comparison to the last several seasons that we've seen from this Milanese designer, A/W was tame by Versace standards. The mistress of maximalism began her show with an almost sober long sleeve, bias-cut dress with asymmetrical hems. Sure, the knee-length skirt had some kick to it, but the clean wool jersey material - later worked in brilliant shades of turquoise, jade and cinnamon - created a calming canvas that felt newly tranquil. Boxy jackets and trapeze shaped coats, especially in deeply hued couture duchesse silk satin, also gave the collection an altered - and welcomed - calibration. That is not to say however that the Versace girls lost their va va voom. Hemlines were still scant, hips were still hugged, and accessories were still generously embraced. In fact, gold metal sprouted liberally along studded trims, on coin bracelets, across embellished bags, and even on gold embroidered sashes that wrapped around figure-hugging gowns, not unlike a beauty pageant queen. Donatella used a military compass to guide the rigorous tailoring of her latest collection and also used the opportunity to shower mini dresses in officer's button, and snug jackets with gold frogging or corporal-like epaulettes. Suede fringe, meanwhile, found its way onto mini skirts and draping off intarsia mink coats. That, coupled with the saucy suede lace-up high boots featuring intricate beading and embroidery, seemed like an irresistible move to sexpot territory.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

JJ Martin