Versace A/W 2014

In comparison to the last several seasons that we've seen from this Milanese designer, A/W was tame by Versace standards. The mistress of maximalism began her show with an almost sober long sleeve, bias-cut dress with asymmetrical hems. Sure, the knee-length skirt had some kick to it, but the clean wool jersey material - later worked in brilliant shades of turquoise, jade and cinnamon - created a calming canvas that felt newly tranquil. Boxy jackets and trapeze shaped coats, especially in deeply hued couture duchesse silk satin, also gave the collection an altered - and welcomed - calibration. That is not to say however that the Versace girls lost their va va voom. Hemlines were still scant, hips were still hugged, and accessories were still generously embraced. In fact, gold metal sprouted liberally along studded trims, on coin bracelets, across embellished bags, and even on gold embroidered sashes that wrapped around figure-hugging gowns, not unlike a beauty pageant queen. Donatella used a military compass to guide the rigorous tailoring of her latest collection and also used the opportunity to shower mini dresses in officer's button, and snug jackets with gold frogging or corporal-like epaulettes. Suede fringe, meanwhile, found its way onto mini skirts and draping off intarsia mink coats. That, coupled with the saucy suede lace-up high boots featuring intricate beading and embroidery, seemed like an irresistible move to sexpot territory.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
JJ Martin
-
A new Tadao Ando monograph unveils the creative process guiding the architect's practice
New monograph ‘Tadao Ando. Sketches, Drawings, and Architecture’ by Taschen charts decades of creative work by the Japanese modernist master
-
Inside the sculptural and sensual philosophy of jewellery house Renisis
Sardwell, founder of jewellery house Renisis, draws on sculpture, travel and theatre to create pieces that fuse sensual form with spiritual resonance
-
Feldspar's furniture is designed to make you smile
Feldspar's furniture debut includes a dining table, side tables, a bench, a floor lamp and the possibility of a cheval mirror, all made in their workshop in Devon
-
Milan exhibition celebrates 20 years of Armani Privé: ‘Haute couture is fashion when it becomes art’
Hosted at the Tadao Ando-designed Armani/Silos, ‘Giorgio Armani Privé 2005-2025, Twenty Years of Haute Couture’ displays an expansive collection of the Italian designer’s showstopping haute couture creations
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to Prada
From Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega Veneta
In this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
-
Now you can admire every Versace catwalk look from your bookshelf
Dive into this Versace-celebrating book, which amasses more than 40 years of fashion shows and 1,200 catwalk images
-
Sweats and sequins: the duality of dressing at Milan Fashion Week S/S 2021
Brands from Dolce & Gabbana to Valentino considered post pandemic dressing, with escapist and pragmatic silhouettes presented with aplomb
-
A decade of fashion show history in pictures
British photographer Jason Lloyd Evans shares his favourite backstage images, from the runway shows of Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel, Armani, Proenza Schouler, Versace and more
-
Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
-
Bottega Veneta A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's