JW Anderson A/W 2014

Leave it to JW Anderson to give us conceptual corduroy. The designer opened his shape-shifting A/W presentation with a series of puff-sleeved, funnel-necked blouses, topped with self-corsets, and teamed with fluted, calf-grazing skirts in the material. Still following? Next came myriad manifestations of twisted, tucked, draped and often raw-edged, ankle-length dresses and skirts, as the neck took over from S/S's obsession with the mid-section. Knitted neck warmers and stiff funnel collars, sealed the rise of this new erogenous zone. Or alternatively, fabric was simply snipped away from haphazard necklines, offering a wide reveal of décolletage. There was also some century shuffling at play - from Andersons' puffed sleeves, to his diamond seam panelling. One exit even sported a gathered bustle, but tellingly, it was his tailored long-line coats, flattened by a coordinated tube top, that sent the audience into an Insta-flap. And while the Northern Irish designer's earthy palette began in subdued putty and mossy hues, we were soon met with a print series that resembled dripping paint, its interesting strangeness exaggerated by his curious origami loafers. This was Andersons' first women's runway appearance since LVMH took a minority stake in his label last September - also extending the creative directorship of Spanish luxury house Loewe come S/S 2015 - and it reinforced his true value as an ideas incubator.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
The bespoke Jaguar E-Type GTO melds elements from every era of the classic sports car
ECD Automotive Design’s one-off commission caters to a client who wanted to combine the greatest hits of Jaguar’s E-Type along with modern conveniences and more power
-
Casa Sanlorenzo debuts in Venice as a new hub for contemporary art
The luxury yachting leader unveils a stunning new space in a palazzo restored by Piero Lissoni – where art, innovation, and sustainability come together
-
Once vacant, London's grand department stores are getting a new lease on life
Thanks to imaginative redevelopment, these historic landmarks are being rebonr as residences, offices, gyms and restaurants. Here's what's behind the trend
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind café
Wallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
As A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Inside JW Anderson’s dreamy, colour-soaked collaboration with Moncler
Made to ‘entertain the eye’, Jonathan Anderson’s third collaboration with Moncler is a dreamlike outing defined by the designer’s deft use of colour
-
Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022: Prada to Fendi
A Prada catwalk peppered with Hollywood stars; menswear's new erogenous zones and a modern take on classic silhouettes: all you need to know about Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London